Holland – April, 2016

Decided to do a bike trip with a friend, El, whom I had met in Africa almost 40 years ago.  Flew from LAX and she met my flight in Amsterdam.  She had reserved all our airb&b accommodations and I was responsible for the restaurants.  We shared a taxi to our Nova Houseboat about a 20 minute bike ride from the center of town set on a canal.  There were two bedrooms downstairs and the houseboat was ours complete with kitchen and dining room.  We also had access to the bikes but they were all too high for me.  El had reserved a racing bike for herself which would be delivered in the morning.  I was just planning to rent a three-speed bike in each town we stayed in.

Our first night we took the tram into town and had a vegetable and noodle curry at Spanjer & Twist, a cute little restaurant close to a canal.  We stopped by a little supermarket and picked up some raisin bread, fruit, etc. for breakfast before taking the tram back to our houseboat.

In the morning we had a leisurely breakfast and then her bike was delivered.  She rode into our little town while I walked and we found a bike shop which had the perfect bike for me.  Stopped nearby at a little café and I had a salad with roasted broccoli, lentils and soft cheese.  We then biked into the woods and along the canals for about an hour before heading into town for dinner at Vlaming Etten und Trinken.  We had to watch carefully as there was a lot of traffic but there are bike lanes everywhere and Holland is very flat so it was pretty easy to keep up with the racing bike!!!  Dinner was excellent and we shared sesame crusted tuna, stir fried green beans/snow peas/mushrooms, sweet potato/potato/parsnip dish followed by a warm chocolate cake with ice cream.  Biked back before dark.

In the morning we rode into Amsterdam and within minutes El ran over some glass and her thin bike wheel resulted in a flat tire…(Supposedly there is also of glass in the streets.)  She decided to upgrade to the best tires and then we were on our way.  Visited the Museum

Willet-holthuysen, a fully furnished canalside home with its large collection of silverware, plates, art, etc.  Three floors and a lovely French-style garden are open to the public.  There is also a lovely dining salon elegantly set for a meal.

Split a brie/walnut panini at a little café and then shared a brownie at a pastry shop across the street where we also picked up some raisin rolls for breakfast in the morning.  On to Ons lieve heer op solder (our lord in the attic), a 17^th century canal house, house church and museum.  The Catholic church was built on the top three floors of the canal house during the 1660s.  It is an important example of a “clandestine church” in which Catholics and other religious dissenters from the Dutch reformed church, unable to worship in public, held services.  There are pews to seat 150, an 18^th century spinet-size pipe organ and two narrow upper balconies.

Wandered around the old church area and red light district, drove by Anne Frank’s house where there was a veryyyy long line and then to Max Restaurant  where we had an Indonesian rijsttafel, i.e. lots of little plates, i.e. beef curry, egg in coconut milk, honey chicken, etc. followed by an Indonesian cake.  It was dark when we biked back to the houseboat and we were happy to arrive safely!

In the morning, although it was very cold out, we decided to bike to Zaanse Schans, a replica 17^th – 18^th century village made up of houses, windmills, workshops, etc. that were moved to the site.  Rode up to the central station and crossed the water on a ferry to Zaandam.  We didn’t have a very good map so it took us awhile to get there but was a beautiful ride.  Started to rain when we arrived so we stopped for lunch at Restaurant & Brasserie d’Swarte Walvis overlooking the river Zaan and shared a warm goat cheese salad with macadamia nuts, apples and apricots, salmon with pasta in a curry sauce and apple pie.  Wandered around the town visiting the windmills, cheese shops, etc. and finally took the train back to Amsterdam as the weather was too rainy and cold to bike back.  Picked up some eggs, etc. and made ourselves a little dinner in the houseboat where it was nice and warm…

After breakfast we rode into town to see the flower market which wasn’t particularly interesting…Stopped at a Sunday food truck market for flatbread with cheese, mushrooms and arugula before spending a couple hours at the Rijksmuseum.  Started in the Rembrandt room to see the Night Watch, moved on to pictures by Vermeer and Frans Hals and then saw two wonderful furnished 17^th century dollhouses.  Went to the special “catwalk” exhibit which was really excellent, i.e. 22 dresses “walked” the catwalk and there was a brochure explaining who designed each one, etc.  Stopped by the gardens on our way out to take some pictures of the fountains which surround you when you step into the center. 

Returned my bike in town and then we stopped for an early dinner at a little Italian place.  I had an arugula/parmesan salad and we shared some grilled prawns.  I leisurely walked back to the houseboat while El rode on ahead.  We relaxed and chatted, enjoying our last night in the houseboat….

In the morning I took the metro to the Zuid train station and caught the 30 minute train to Leiden.  El rode her bike so I arrived first.  Took the bus to our airb&b in nearby Oegstgeest.  Since she wasn’t there yet I walked to the park and had a delicious warm goat cheese salad with peppers, walnuts and warm crusty bread sitting outside overlooking the pond.  Once she had arrived we walked back into town and found a cute little café where she had a salad and I had a brownie and some tea.  Picked up some fruit for breakfast in the morning.  She was tired after her long ride so I walked into town on my own as it only took about 20 minutes.  I walked along the canals and into the center passing some great old churches until I found In den bierbenga where I had a delicious meal.  In this really cozy place with great atmosphere, I enjoyed baked mushrooms topped with cheese, duck with blueberry sauce and crisp parsnips and French “toast” with whipped cream and pear sorbet.  Caught the bus back…

Walked through the park in the morning and then into town to pick up some raisin bread and pastries for breakfast.  I walked and El biked into Leiden where I rented a bike at the central station.  We rode around town a bit and then parked our bikes and wandered around enjoying the cute little town.  Visited Pieterskerk, a late-gothic church dedicated to Saint Peter.  This beautiful enormous church with two organs is only used for events now.  There was also an exhibition about the pilgrims which was very interesting.  Shared a delicious warm goat cheese salad with pine nuts and crisp brown bread for lunch at a nice café nearby.  Bread is really good here and usually served warm and crusty.  Rode around the canals and down to the cemetery and then back to our rooms to regroup.  Dinner at het prentenkabinet, an upscale French restaurant supposedly one of the 10 best in Leiden but we were a bit disappointed.  Shared an asparagus appetizer and then fresh fish of the day but they had just taken their chocolate dessert off the menu leaving not much else of interest…Win a few lose a few…

The next morning after breakfast we rode our bikes to Keukenhof about 16 km away.  It was a beautiful day, although cold, and we stopped along the way to enjoy the beautiful flowers, etc.  In 1948 a group of flower bulb workers decided to use the estate of the Keukenhof Castle (built in 1641) which had grown to over 200 hectares for a permanent exhibition of spring flowering bulbs.  A team of 40 gardeners start planting 7 million flower bulbs in mid September.  All the bulbs are planted by hand which takes three months.  The season lasts 8 weeks and at the end of the season all the bulbs are dug up and destroyed and after the summer the cycle begins anew.  Each year there is a theme and this year it was the golden age.  There was a beautiful mosaic of flowers showing a delft blue tile on which the trade across the seas and the rich canalside houses of Amsterdam were depicted.  100,000 flower bulbs were used!!!  Wandered the gardens for a couple hours and then stopped at a café and shared a cheese/tomato Panini and a pastry each.  Rode back. 

In the evening we biked into town for dinner at Bistro Noroc.  It is a sweet little café on a tiny little street near Peter’s Church with excellent food.  We shared a goat cheese salad (what else!!!) with pumpkin seeds, arugula and roasted pears, Thai chicken curry with noodles and vegetables and each had a crème brulee with cinnamon ice cream – our best meal yet!!!  Rode back FAST as it was pretty cold by then.

Took a walk in the morning and picked up some pastries for breakfast.  Took another bike ride out into the countryside, stopping in Sassheim where there was an open air market going on.  Had lunch in a little café and then rode back trying to use the GPS on El’s bike which took some doing.  In the evening, she wasn’t feeling well so I biked into town by myself.  First returned the bike and then set out on foot (a nice change!!) to walk around the town.  Ended up at Lot en de Walvis near the harbor for dinner.  Sat outside as it was very pleasant and ordered gravlak with fried capers, baby greens and crisp spelt bread, chicken yakitori with sesame seeds and couscous and ended with a delicious chocolate cake served with coconut ice cream and fresh shaved coconut.  Walked back…

After breakfast, El left for Den Hague and I walked to the train station and caught the train.  We met about 12:30 p.m. at our airb&b and it was quite nice.  Separate rooms, access to the living room and kitchen and breakfast prepared for us in the morning!  Peter, our host, drove me into town where I met El and rented a bike at the train station.  We stopped for a quick salad and then spent a couple hours in the Escher Museum housed in the Lange Voorhout Palace.  The museum features permanent displays of a large number of his woodcuts and lithographs but we didn’t have enough time to see it all… Dinner nearby at Feedback, a cozy little restaurant near the center but off the beaten track.  Shared beet turnover, crabcake with mango dice and raw tuna with wasabi cream to start, sautéed salmon with honey, fresh spinach and cornbread and a blondie with walnuts, candied orange peel and chocolate mousse for dessert.

In the morning Peter set out an incredible spread for the two of us, i.e. croissant, apple pastries, cheese, fruit, eggs, etc.  Took the train (and our bikes) to Delft, a really quaint little town whose facades of the Renaissance and gothic houses reflect age-old beauty.  It was really cold and rainy so we decided against biking out.  Old master Jan Vermeer spent most of his life surrounded by Delft’s beauty.

Visited the de koninklijke porceleyne fles (royal delft factory) museum and workshop to learn how the pottery is made.  Delft blue started in the Netherlands around the 17^th century when the Dutch India Company brought the blue painted porcelain back from China.  For Royal Delft it started in 1653 when Van der Pieth transformed his house into an earthenware factory.  In the 17^th century Royal Delft had several factories but this one is the only one left. 

Found a nice little café for lunch.  I had a wonderful sweet potato salad with arugula, goat cheese and roasted hazelnuts and some crusty brown bread.  El had roasted sweet pepper soup.  We wandered around the fruit and vegetable market and the antique market and then spent about an hour in the Het Prinsenhof museum to learn the history of William of Orange who lived from 1572 to 1584 when he was assassinated.  Also saw some nice paintings of Vermeer, i.e. “little street”, etc.  Train back…Later that evening we rode way out to the harbor which took a lot longer than we had expected.  Had a lovely dinner at Catch overlooking the water, i.e. shared sushi with crab and avocado, monk fish with green curry, bok choy, rice and sweet potato and each had a crème brulee.  By the time we finished it was dark out and neither of us had lights on our bikes so it was hard to find our way and stay together but we made it!!!  Well worth the trouble to be sure.

Peter made delicious crepes for breakfast and then we rode out to Maduradam, a miniature park and home to a range of 1:25 scale model replicas of famous Dutch landmarks, historical cities, etc.  It is an outside park so was a bit cold but no rain.  There are also stands with in depth information around the park as well as brief video shows.  It did start to rain as we left so we fixed lunch in our little kitchen.  Later we rode out into the sand dunes nearby and then after a brief rest headed into town.  Wandered around the old town, i.e. passed by Mauritshuis which houses many fine paintings, the Binnenhof, a 13^th century hunting lodge of the counts of Holland, etc. 

As it was our last night in Den Hague we decided to have dinner at HanTing, a fusion Michelin star restaurant with excellent reviews.  Had the three course tasting menu which started with an appetizer plate with crisp seaweed sticks and oyster shell with eggplant mousse, first course was scallop and thinly sliced octopus with sticky rice, second course a nori wrapped sole and third course wagyu beef with beet sauce.  We also shared a chocolate forest dessert with raspberry sorbet.  It was an interesting experience…

In the morning after another wonderful breakfast, El and I said our good-byes.  The weather was very cold and rainy so she opted to take the train back to Amsterdam and then head home.  Peter took me to the train station where I caught the train to Bruges where I would be travelling by foot!!!  I took many great memories of our trip to Holland with me.

Roasted Pear and barley salad

3 ripe but firm Bartlett pears (about 1-1/2 lb.), cored and

  cut into ¾-inch cubes

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1 Tbsp. thyme leaves

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1C cooked barley

¼ lb. thinly sliced prosciutto

1 Tbsp. sugar

6 oz. arugula or medley greens

1/3C shaved Parmesan cheese

1/3C toasted pecan pieces

Vinaigrette

2 Tbsp. pear vinegar

2 Tbsp. raspberry vinegar

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 tsp. balsamic mustard

6 Tbsp. olive oil

Preheat oven to 425F.  Shake vinaigrette ingredients together in a jar.  Toss pears, olive oil, thyme, salt and pepper to taste in a bowl.  Spread pears out in a single layer on a parchment-lined cookie sheet.  Roast pears, turning occasionally, until golden – about 25 minutes.  Cool.

Arrange prosciutto slices on a parchment-lined cooking sheet, making sure they do not touch.  Sprinkle sugar evenly over the slices and bake until caramelized and glossy, 8 to 10 minutes – watch carefully!!  Remove and allow to crisp.  Cool.

Combine barley and pears with vinaigrette to coat.  Add the greens, Parmesan and pecans and toss again.  Crumble prosciutto over the top MAKES:  6 servings

India – Calcutta to Delhi – February, 2016

My second G Adventure trip started in Calcutta so I took a taxi from Delhi to the airport only to find that the flight had been delayed two hours!!!  Air India gave us a coupon for a complimentary lunch at a very nice restaurant so while waiting for my flight I enjoyed dal, paneer, chicken curry and Indian bread.  Took a prepaid taxi to “Central” where I was staying but the driver, and later myself(!!!), had a very hard time finding it.  Luckily J who runs the “hotel” was always available by phone so I eventually arrived.

Nice large room on the 7^th floor, quiet with AC and hot water.  Even though it was almost 10 p.m. I was a bit hungry and wanted to stretch my legs so J suggested I walk around the corner to the Forum as it was safe to walk alone at night.  Found the Forum and had a nice Bengali meal, i.e. coconut chickpea dal, luchi (puffed bread) and little potatoes with spicy sauce at Oh! Calcutta.

In the morning I took a walk and had breakfast at Piccadilly Circus bakery nearby, i.e. delicious coffee and a brownie.  Took a taxi to the Marble Palace but it was closed for a private tour until later so I walked to the Howrah suspension bridge which is 705 m long and was built during WWII.  Also visited the colorful Mlik Ghat flower market nearby.  Walked back to the Marble Palace but it was still closed so I gave up on seeing it and instead visited the Kaliglat Temple, an ancient Kali temple, rebuilt in 1809 and Calcutta’s holiest spot for Hindus and possibly the source of its name.  It is a lovely temple with floral and peacock motif tiles that look more Victorian than Indian.  During festivals goats are sacrificed there…After much searching I found Bhojohari Manna mentioned in Lonely Planet as the top Bengal restaurant in Calcutta.  I certainly couldn’t miss that!  There was a long line but I finally got seated in this very cute restaurant with delicious food.  Had chickpea dal, this time it had fresh coconut slivers in it, Luchi and a stuffed potato dish served with a spicy mint sauce – realllyy tasty.  Walked around a bit but the city is so confusing I couldn’t find my way so just took the metro back to Central, calling J along the way to get directions!!!

Next day was Valentine’s Day so was lucky to get a reservation at Peshawri in the ITC Sonor.  I had a reservation for the night before but arrived too late so thanks to J was able to reserve for the following night.  Enjoyed a prix fixe dinner similar to Bukhara in Delhi, i.e. stuffed potatoes, tandoori chicken thighs (very tender and delicious), rolled lamb, garlic naan, chicken with tikka masala and peppers, dal and Indian ice cream.  The food was really so much better than in Delhi.

Walked around the gardens of the Victoria Monument in the morning which were lovely and very well kept.   They cover an area of 64 acres and everything seemed to be in bloom.  Visited St. John’s church built in 1787.  Quite British looking inside and out ringed by columns and housing rattan chairs inside.  Walked along the Ganges to Millenium Park which was rather uneventful.  Lunch at Zaranji near the Indian Museum was delicious, i.e. kofta navar (dumplings with a really nice sauce), dal and tandoori roti plus some candied mango chutney which went well with everything.  Wanted to visit the Ashutosh Museum of Indian Art but couldn’t find it so just gave up.  Took a taxi to Hotel Lytton where our G Adventure would start with a meeting at 6 p.m. 

Am delighted to have Dushyant again as my guide and it was fun to see him again!  Walked to the new market and had a kati roll, Bengal’s trademark fast food.  It’s a paratha roti filled with sliced onions, chili and a stuffing, i.e. mine was cheese and potato.

In the morning had delicious coffee and chocolate brownie at Flury’s, a very cute little coffee shop nearby.  Walked over to the Oberoi where many years ago my ex husband and I had dined!!!

We visited Mother Teresa’s Motherhouse where she lived most of her life and saw the little room where she slept from 1953 – 1997.  She won the Nobel prize for peace in the 1970’s and dedicated her life to helping the poor, especially the lepers.

Visited the Victoria memorial and went inside to see the paintings, etc.  It was designed to commemorate Queen Victoria’s 1901 diamond jubilee but the construction wasn’t completed until 1921, i.e. almost 20 years after her death.  In front there is a bronze statue of her on her throne.  Took a ferry ride down the Ganges to the Hawrah Bridge and then had lunch on Sudder Street at a little Bengal café, i.e. luchi, vegetable and potato dishes – all very nice.  Had some time to wander around a bit in the new market before catching the overnight train to Kalimpong.

Arrived at 6:30 a.m. at the train station and still needed to take

a 3 hour bus ride to get to Kalimpong.  Stopped for parantha stuffed with potatoes and coffee for breakfast.  Checked into our hotel and then visited the Cactus gardens and a nearby church.  Had vegetarian noodles for lunch at Gompu’s restaurant and then drove to the Durpin Gompa monastery consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 1976.  It is perched atop a hill and very beautiful inside.  Listened to the monks “praying”, i.e. reciting words, blowing horns and clinging cymbals.  Dinner at a little restaurant across from the hotel was vegetable curry, naan and roti bread.  Food was really good.

In the morning we headed to Sikkim, a state in East India in the Himalyan foot hills bordering Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan.  It requires a permit to enter but is easy to obtain.  While our guide got our permits we had potato stuffed paranthas and coffee for breakfast.  Drove to Gangtok, the capital, and visited Rumtek Gompa considered one of Tibetan Buddhism’s most venerable institutions and currently the home-in-exile of Buddhism’s Kagyu (black hat) sect.  Meant to replace the Tsurphu monastery in Tibet, the main monastery building was constructed between 1961 and 1966.  The giant throne within awaits the crowning of the (disputed) 17^th karmapa, who currently resides in Dharamasala.  Shared a Nepalese thali with one of the traverlers, i.e. dal, rice, vegetables, cracker bread, curd and beans and then checked into our hotel.  Very cold up in the mountains.

As we are a bit far from town had dinner at our hotel (Maplewood), i.e. spicy vegetables, cumin potato dish and naan bread.   Indian breakfast at the hotel was delicious, i.e. fried eggs, dry rice dish, potato parantha and hot tea.  Very foggy day so couldn’t see much from the Ganesh Tok viewpoint.  Visited Hanuman Tok and the Enchey Gompa containing beautiful murals of tantric deities.  The monastery founder was apparently famous for his levitational skills and was a flying monk some have said!!!  Stopped at the Himalyan Zoological Park to see some unique animals, i.e. red pandas, snow leopards and clouded leopards in a forest like atmosphere.  Lots of hiking up and down hills to get to the animals which was lovely. 

Stopped for some Tibetan momas, i.e. stuffed dumplings and then on to the lingdum gompa, the most picturesque of Gangtok’s monasteries, flower gardens and the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology housed in a traditional Tibetan-style mansion with a wonderful collection of artifacts related to Vajrayana Buddhism and Tibetan culture, i.e. Tantric ritual objects, thopa (bowl made from a human skull), thangkas (Tibetan cloth paintings), etc.

Took a gondola over the city and into the center of town.  Had some free time to wander around before meeting for dinner at A Taste of Tibet for some Tibetan vegetarian noodles and masala papadam.

In the morning we drove to Darjeeling, stopping for vegetable noodles on the way.  Visited the Tibetan Refugee center which houses 600 aged, orphans, etc. and is also a clinic, gompa and craft workshop.  Had mutton, spinach paneer and naan at Glenary’s for dinner.

Sunrise at Tiger Hill and then breakfast at a little café.  Visited the Happy Valley Tea Estate which began in 1854.  The estate was not functioning this time of year but we had a tour nevertheless and tried some of their tea which is organic and quite nice.

Visited the Mahakal Temple situated on top of a hill, walking through beautiful prayer flags on the way up.  Afterwards we visited the Japanese Peace Pagoda, a gleaming white building and one of the more than 70 pagodas built around the world by the Japanese Buddhist organization.  In the pagoda were murals carved out of rock depicting scenes in Buddha’s life. 

Had some free time so stopped at the Himalayan coffee shop for chocolate cashew cake and delicious coffee before wandering around town.  Met at 3 p.m. to go to the train station where we took the toy train which made its first journey along its two foot wide tracks in September 1881.  Stopped first in Ghum where we visited the railway museum and then in Kurseong and back to Darjeeling.  Unlike the Shimla train, this one ran within feet of local storefronts. 

Had dinner at Shangri-law restaurant, i.e. stuffed potatoes w/sauce, fish curry, dal and butter naan. 

Nice uphill walk to the Hindu temple we visited yesterday and took a leisurely walk around and back down to have coffee and walnut brownie for breakfast at the Himalayan Café.  Wandered around the city until 4 p.m. when we took taxis to the train station.  Unfortunately!!! There was a strike and people were sitting on the tracks so we had to wait in the train station for 13 hours (!!!) until the train finally arrived at 5:00 a.m..  A few of us played cards for several hours which helped the time go by.  I had picked up some cookies at Himalyan Café so had those for dinner.  Finally arrived at Mugal Sarai at 6:30 p.m. and then had to take a bus to Varanasi.  Most of us slept for several hours on the train and they did serve some nice vegetable curry, rice and dal for lunch.  Beautiful scenery along the way – a part of India I hadn’t seen before.  Had a nice dinner at our hotel in Varanasi, i.e. spinach dumplings, some cashew curry, cornmeal misti roti and regular naan.

Up early and headed down the Ganges on a boat to watch the sunrise.  Many people were already bathing and taking their holy dips.  Also saw some bodies on the stairs wrapped up and waiting to be cremated.  Lit some candles and sent them out with good wishes on lily pads into the Ganges….

I stayed in town while everyone else returned to the hotel and spent a couple hours immersing myself in Varanasi, i.e. watching people get their heads shaved, bathing in the Ganges, etc.  Tuk Tuk back to the hotel for vegetable jalfrezi and garlic naan and then went to a carpet “mansion” with our guide and a traveler looking to buy.  Interesting to see the beauty of the carpets but they were even too expensive for him.

Later in the evening we took a boat across the Ganges and Dushyant and one of our lady travelers took a “holy dip”.  Ferry back to the other side and a fun walk through the narrow streets and alleys ending at the blue lassi where we all had fruit lassis with fresh shredded fruit on top sitting on the terrace.  Mine was papaya and pineapple and delicious!  Took our boat out in front of the Dashshwamedh ghat decorated with  Hindu statues and watched the evening ceremony of lights, singing, etc.  Saw 13 piles of bodies burning as we floated down the river…

Stopped at a Nepalese home for a “cooking class” which was not really a cooking class.  The daughter made some momos (stuffed dumplings) and we all stuffed a couple to learn the technique.  The dad made some vegetable soup with noodles and we had those for dinner.  A really nice day…

Early morning train to Lucknow.  Checked into the hotel, had a quick lunch of dal and naan and took tuk tuks to the Residency, a large collection of gardens and ruins built in 1800 and served as the residence for the British resident guard who was a representative in the court of the Nawan.  In 1857 it witnessed the siege of lucknow, a prolonged battle lasting 147 days.  Dinner at a Moghul restaurant where we shared some mutton kebabs, dumplings, soft thin roti and some vegetable biryani which was quite nice.

In the morning after breakfast went to Bara Imambara, constructed in 1785, a year of a devastating famine, to provide employment for people in the region for almost a decade.   The entrance is accessed through two enormous gateways leading into a beautiful courtyard.  On one side is the beautiful Badshahi mosque and on the other is a large bowli (stepwell with running water).  The main imambara consists of a large vaulted center chamber containing the tomb of Asaf-ud-daula.  Walked up to the top of the central hall and into the three dimensional labyrinth, a network of narrow passageways that wind up to the upper floors.  Very impressive.

Had lunch at a little café with marginal Indian food which was rather disappointing as that was my last meal in India…Shared stuffed potatoes, butter chicken, misti roti and naan.  Caught the late afternoon train to Delhi and had a samosa for dinner.  Arrived about 10:30 p.m. and took a quick shower at the hotel before taking a taxi to the airport.  My flight left on time at 3:30 a.m.  What a great trip – can’t believe it’s already over…

India – February, 2016 – Delhi to Delhi

Off to India, one of my favorite countries in the world!!!  Left out of orange county which was very convenient and arrived at 2:00 a.m. the next morning in Delhi!!!  Am staying again at the delightful Shanti Home and had a car pick me up as it was sooo late.  Took a hot shower and slept until 9:00 a.m.  Delicious breakfast on the terrace (one of the reasons I love Shanti Home) was all made to order:  hard cooked eggs, crepes filled with sugar and an Indian dish.  Shanti Home is a bit far from the center but there is a metro a 10 minute walk away.  A hotel worker walked me to the metro, got me organized and off I went to the Craft Museum.

I had been to the Craft Museum a few years ago but didn’t really have enough time to see it well.  So, I spent a nice 2 hours enjoying the wall hangings, embroidery, saris, etc.  Had a delicious lunch, i.e. corn pancakes, pureed mustard greens, jaggerty at the museum’s little café and then, refreshed, headed to the Kahn Market.  Found a cute little blouse at the Anokhi shop and wandered around a bit.  Stopped for a quick walk around Connaught square before heading back to the hotel for a rest.

Have been invited to an Indian wedding the following night and this afternoon the bride’s party was having their hands painted in henna.  I chatted a bit with everyone and then they painted one of my hands as well – so beautiful.  Took a taxi to Indian Accents Restaurant and had a fabulous meal, i.e. blue cheese mini naan, burrata with tomato chutney, walnuts and crispy crackers, shredded spicy duck “cone”, shrimp wrapped in bacon w/wasabi cream, sweet and spicy pork ribs, soft shell crab pieces deep fried in coconut flour with tomato pickle sauce, sorbet on a stick, pepper fish on greens with spicy sauce, dal, yogurt/avocado sauce, bacon stuffed naan and carrot crumble and chocolate fudge layered brownie for dessert followed by tiny cardamom cookies and mango candies. 

I returned to the hotel by taxi and the festivities for the next day’s wedding were still going on.  Had a look at the buffet, listened to the band and watched the dancing before turning in…

After another delicious breakfast on the terrace, I took the metro to the Qutb Minar Complex where the first monuments here were erected by the sultans of Mehrauli and subsequent rulers expanded on their work. Hiring the finest craftsmen and artisans to create an explanation mark in stone to record the triumph of muslim rule.  Dominated by the spectacular soaring afghan-style victory tower and minaret, Qutb is studded with ruins and tombs which I enjoyed wandering through.  Tuk tuk to hauz khas village for lunch at Naivedyam, i.e. masala dosa, crisp lentil pancake filled with masala potatoes and vegetables served with spicy green and red sauces, yogurt sauce and dal – sooooo tasty.  Wandered through the shops and back into the complex of old mosques along the water until I got tired. 

Met another couple from the hotel also going to the wedding at 8:00 p.m. and we finally arrived at an enormous hall about 10:00 p.m. as the driver couldn’t find his way.  No problem as the groom had not even arrived yet.  1,000 people dressed in beautiful saris filled the hall which was decorated everywhere with flowers.  Live music and later videos of the couple were playing on an enormous band stand.  Appetizers were passed and also about 20 “stations” were set up serving incredibly delicious vegetarian appetizers, the likes of which I had never seen, let alone tasted. 

Stopped by the fruit table to clear our palates and finally the groom appeared wearing a beautiful turban and, after much money changing to allow him entrance into the hall, he was seated on the stage awaiting his bride.

We went to the other side of the hall where there were about 50 stations serving Indian food from many regions as well as European dishes.  We chose a selection and sat down to enjoy the feast.  The bridge appeared so we watched as she arrived in a chariot filled with flowers.  Afterwards we picked a selection of desserts from the dessert table, some tea from the drinks station and enjoyed everything.  About 1:00 a.m. things were winding down and we were tired so we called our taxi and returned to the hotel.  The whole experience was absolutely amazing!!!

Late breakfast and then took the metro to Akshardham temple, an ostentatious salmon-colored sandstone structure with 20,000 deities

carved into it.  Walked along the water and around the temple, all carved with beautiful hindu images.  Lunch at Bukhara, a tandoori restaurant, i.e. tandoori cauliflower, stuffed potatoes, garlic naan, dal and rice pudding before returning to Shanti Home.  Taxi to Metro Heights where I was to start my trip with G Adventures. 

Group meeting at 6 p.m.  Our local guide Dushysat turned out to be an outstanding guide and I was fortunate to have him on both my trips.  Went to a cafeteria type restaurant for dinner which was a bit disappointing but there are many meals to come!!

Visited the G Adventures-supported New Delhi Streetkids Project which has helped many orphans who used to live on the streets but are now taken care of.  Lunch at Aroma, i.e. tandoori salad and naan bread which was yummy before boarding the train to Amritsar.  Arrived very late so showered and went to bed.  Took a walk after breakfast and then visited Jallianwala Bagh, where the British Indian Army opened fire on a crowd of nonviolent protestors on 13 April 1919, killing well over 1,000 people…

Visited the famous  Amritsar golden temple, floating at the end of a long causeway.  It is a blend of hindu and Islamic architectural styles with an elegant marble level and a shimmering second level, encased in engraved gold panels, topped by a dome gilded with 750 kg of gold.  Visited the enormous kitchens where food for 60,000 people is prepared every day, i.e. dal, vegetables, naan, rice and rice pudding.  We all “helped” roll out some bread and had lunch (which was delicious!) on tin plates. 

Later that evening we drove to the wagah border (Indian/Pakistan border) to watch the parade by the soldiers from both sides and the lowering of the two nations’ flags.  There were soo many people it was really hard to see anything.  Stopped at the Crystal Restaurant for dinner, i.e. kofta with cashew sauce and naan bread on the way back to the hotel.  A few of us wandered around the temple at night which was quite lovely.

In the morning walked to the temple to see the sun rise.  Walked around the complex but there was an enormous line of people so didn’t go inside.  Packed up and had breakfast at a nearby coffee shop.  I ordered a delicious piece of chocolate cake with rich icing.  Don’t remember desserts being this good in India the last time I was here. 

Bus to Dharamasala, stopping for a potato/cauliflower dish and chickpea naan along the way.  Very cold here so requested a few extra blankets.  Walked to a Tibetan restaurant nearby for momas, vegetable stuffed dumplings, which took a LONG time to prepare but were delicious.  Wore all my clothes to bed!!!

Took a nice leisurely walk into town before breakfast and then a stroll around McLeod Banj, the famous seat of the Tibetan government in exile and current home of the Dalai Lama, to the waterfall and on to the Shiva temple for a nice view of the Himalayans.  Drove to the Norbulingka Institute of Tibetan culture but since it was a Tibetan holiday it was closed.  Also closed was the Kangra Art Museum in the Kotwali bazaar as well as the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts where generally a folk opera is performed…

Visited the Brajeshwari devi temple, a sacred shrine known for its great wealth.  On to the Church of St. John in the Wilderness with its lovely stained glass windows and finally to the Tsuglagkhang complex comprising the official residence of the Dalai Lama.  Sacred to Avalokitesvara, the Tibetan deity of compassion, it enshrines a 3 meter high gilded statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha.  Also visited the Kalachakra temple, a beautiful and colorful Buddhist temple near the market square.  Had some free time to wander around the bazaar and planned to meet at the Tibetan Kitchen; however, it was closed because of the holiday.  Ended up at another nearby restaurant and shared some fried vegetable momas, naan bread and some Tibetan noodles with vegetables with another couple.  Although it was dark, the walk back to the hotel was lovely.

A nice breakfast of scrambled eggs on toast and then our bus headed to Shimla, stopping at the Norbulingka institute which was open!!   Built in the traditional Tibetan architectural style with temples, etc., it housed an interesting “doll” museum with diaramas depicting Tibetan history and life.  We ran into a lot of traffic so the trip to Shimla took all day.  We did stop for a potato/cauliflower dish with naan bread which had to do for dinner as we arrived in Shimla at 11:00 p.m.  Took a hot shower and went to bed.

In the morning it was so cold I didn’t even bother changing clothes.  Took a walk up into town and found it delightful!  Looked for a place for breakfast but didn’t find anything until I was heading back to the hotel and spotted a really nice hotel off to my right.  Interestingly, many of our travelers were already there enjoying breakfast together so I joined them and had a delicious meal, i.e. hot “real” coffee, scrambled eggs on toast and fruit.  Met in the lobby of our hotel at 9:00 a.m. and walked up to the Jakhoo Temple, dedicated to the hindu monkey god Hanuman.  Lots of rhesusmacagues monkeys were loitering about and one even stole someone’s glasses off her face!!!  Luckily, with a little persuasion, they were returned.  There is also an impressive giant 108 foot high idol of hanuman which towers over the town. 

Stopped for Dosas at the Indian Coffee House and then a few of us took a taxi to Viceregal Lodge, built as an official residence in 1888 for the British Viceroys and eventually used as a summer residence.  Walked down to Christ Church built between 1844 and 1857 which contains some lovely stained glass windows and finally down to the Gaiety Theatre, modeled after the Garrick in London with its Burmese teak stage, etc.  Productions are still performed there.

Had dinner at the hotel where we had had breakfast and it was delicious.  I had kofta with spinach and onion stuffed roti.  Also shared some potato stuffed with cheese and vegetables which someone else had ordered – such great food.

Nice walk around town and delicious breakfast again at same hotel as yesterday.  Taxis to the train station and caught the Unesco World Heritage Shimla toy train to Kalka.  The line crosses more than 800 bridges and travels through over 100 tunnels.  Along the way are beautiful views of hills and villages.  Trip took about 6 hours but they really passed quickly.  Got a chance to talk with some of my fellow travelers who are always very interesting.

Later that afternoon we took a train to Delhi which was a nice luxurious train serving dinner, i.e. samosa, soup, curry, dal, rice and Indian bread and even ice cream!!!  Arrived in Delhi about 11 p.m.  In the morning after a nice walk and breakfast I flew to Calcutta to start the second part of my India experience.  Time sure does fly when you are having fun!!!

Prosciutto wrapped asparagus and arugula salad

1 lb. thin asparagus

2 Tbsp. olive oil plus more for brushing

salt and freshly ground pepper

½C panko crumbs

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

2 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 Tbsp. Italian parsley

2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

12 thin slices prosciutto

3C baby arugula

1/2C shaved Parmesan

½ C whole toasted almonds, coarsely chopped

Vinaigrette

2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 Tbsp. sherry wine vinegar

2 tsp. honey mustard

5 Tbsp. olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Shake the vinaigrette ingredients together in a jar.  Brush the asparagus with olive oil and grill or roast in the oven until almost tender.  Let cool.  In a sauté pan heat 2 tablespoons olive oil, add the panko and garlic and cook, stirring, until crumbs are golden and crisp.  Remove from the heat and let cool slightly, then stir in the Parmesan, parsley and lemon zest.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Divide the asparagus into 6 even piles.  On a work surface, arrange the prosciutto slices in 6 pairs, overlapping slightly.  Set an asparagus pile on each prosciutto pair and roll up.  Grill the bundles on moderately  high heat, turning, until the asparagus are tender and prosciutto is crisp.  Toss the arugula with vinaigrette to coat and add the Parmesan

Prosciutto wrapped asparagus and almonds.  Divide the arugula mixture among six plates and place the asparagus bundles on top of each.  Sprinkle each with some of the panko mixture.

MAKES:  6 servings