Washington, D.C.

May, 2011

As it had been several years since I visited Washington D.C. I decided it was time to go again this year.  There is so much to do and see there!!!   I stayed at Adams Inn near the Woodley Park Zoo (www.adamsinn.com) where I have stayed before.  It is very conveniently located near Dupont Circle, on a quaint street and quite charming.  Before I left I looked online at the various museums and decided what I wanted to see and where I wanted to go.  I made all my lunch and dinner reservations through Open Table so was very well prepared when I arrived.

Some of the museums I visited were the Renwick Gallery, the American Art Museum (www.si.edu)  where they had some Alexander Calder portraits on display and the American History Museum to see the first ladies’ dresses and the kitchen of Julia Child.  I also visited some new museums I was unfamiliar with but would highly recommend.  I loved the underground Museum of African History, all the more as I had just been to the Fowler Museum in Los Angeles where they were exhibiting wooden masks and arts from Nigeria.  I spent two days in the new National Museum of Crime and Punishment (www.crimemuseum.org) which is open until 8:00 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights when all other museums are closed!!!  There are 4 – 5 floors filled with Bonnie and Clydes’ bullet hole riddled car, information about the Salem witch hunts, unsolved crimes, etc.  Really fascinating.  There is also a National Pinball Museum (www.nationalpinballmuseum.org) which I didn’t visit.

The only “museum” I booked ahead was the Ford Theater and the One Destiny play.  It has always been under renovation whenever I have been to Washington D.C. and I didn’t want to miss it this time.  The museum tells the story of Lincoln’s life up until he was assassinated in that very building with some of his keepsakes and the top hat he wore.  The One Destiny play is well worth seeing as it is a “what if” type play which goes over the events of the day Lincoln was assassinated and how his death might have been avoided if more people were paying attention….

One day I spent walking the monuments which takes about 3 hours.  I started at the Washington Monument which you can go up to the top of if you like, on to the Lincoln Memorial from where you can usually see the Washington Monument reflected in the pond.  However, the pond is under construction so it is not filled with water at this time.  On around to the FDR /Eleanor Roosevelt memorials with bronze figures of the president in his wheel chair and men standing in line for jobs and then to the impressive Jefferson Memorial with Jefferson standing bigger than life in the center.  I stopped by the Korea and Vietnam Memorials on my way back but it would surely save time to stop and see them before the Lincoln memorial.  After all that walking the Hirshhorn Sculpture Gardens (www.hirschhorn.wi.edu) is a good place for a rest!!!

I decided to go to Mt. Vernon during the week as the weekends are generally very crowded.  I took the yellow line metro to Huntington Station and then caught the Fairfax connector bus #101 to Mt. Vernon which dropped me off at the entrance.  It is enchanting to visit George and Martha Washington’s home and imagine them living there.  Wandering around the grounds, gardens and slave quarters is leisurely and enjoyable and a visit to the museum gives insight into their lives.

Georgetown is another great place to wander around, especially along the canals when the weather is fine.  On the way you can visit the Old Stone House at 3051 M Street.  It is the oldest standing building in the city and is a simple dwelling built and inhabited by common folk.

The Dumbarton House (www.dumbartonhouse.org), an historic house museum filled with Federal period furniture gives one a look into life in Georgetown.  The Tudor Historic House (www.tudorplace.org) nearby, built in 1816, is also worth a visit.  It was originally owned by Martha Custis Peter, the granddaughter of Martha Washington and its grounds are lovely.  It houses silver, ceramics, furniture, etc. from the period 1750 – 1983 as well as the 1919 Pierce Arrow owned by Armistead Peter III.  You can also stroll in Dumbarton Oaks and as well as visit the private Phillips Collection of art (www.phillipscollection.org), both of which I will do on my next visit!

Overall I was well pleased with my choice of restaurants.  I had a delicious sesame seared tuna/pastrami cured salmon/Napa cabbage slaw crudo plate at Ris Restaurant (www.risdc.com) on L Street; Asian chicken salad with cabbage, noodles and peppers/Chilean sea bass with short ribs and yuzu sauce at Oya (www.oyadc.com) on 9^th Street;  cooked greens, lentil puree and olive salad with whole pistachios/shrimp with mustard sauce/Turkish chocolate cake with caramel sesame seeds at Zaytinya (www.zaytinya.com) on 9^th Street and beet salad with carrots and goat cheese/coconut rice and salmon with black sesame seeds at Corduroy (www.corduroydc.com) on 9^th street.

I enjoyed Sunday dim sum brunch composed of shrimp with squash puree/scallops with cauliflower puree/lamb plantain empanadas, cauliflower quinoa “couscous” at Café Atlantico (www.cafeatlantico.com) on 8^th Street; the “blue plate special” composed of grilled asparagus spears/baby artichoke hearts on potato puree/cold melon soup/succotash of fava beans, peppers, corn, etc. and warm Georgian pecan pie at Vidalia (www.vidalia.com) on M Street and a very expensive prix fixe dinner at Citronelle (www.citronelledc.com)  also on M Street.  I spent about 3 hours savoring an oyster shooter/split pea soup “coteccino”/tempura soft shell crab with tahini/halibut w/lobster broth/lobster burger w/homemade potato chips/rack of lamb with fava, black and white beans/short ribs with peppercorn sauce/cheese platter/ “lemon meringue pie”/chocolate crunch bar and petits fours – Whew!!!  One of my favorite restaurants is Komi but I couldn’t get a reservation this time. 

All is all, I think it is always good to leave a city knowing there are still a few things left undone!!!

Tuscan Bean Soup with Cauliflower

1C navy or great northern beans, soaked in cold water over night,

  Rinsed well

6 – 8C chicken stock

1 Tbsp. dried thyme

1 Tbsp. dried basil

1 Tbsp. dried oregano

1 small onion, peeled and sliced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 bay leaf

1C pureed tomatoes

1/4C Italian parsley leaves, chopped

1/2C fresh corn kernels (optional)

2C baby spinach leaves

½ head cauliflower, cut into florets

2 Tbsp. olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Place the beans in a large pot with chicken stock, thyme, basil oregano, onion, celery and bay leaf.  Bring to a simmer and simmer until beans are tender – about 45 minutes. 

Place the cauliflower florets on a cookie sheet and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper to taste.  Roast in a 400F oven until tender, turning once.

Add the pureed tomatoes, Italian parsley, corn and spinach to the soup and bring to a simmer.  Add the cauliflower and heat.  Serve hot.

MAKES:  8 servings

Arabian Eggplant Stew

1/2C chickpeas, soaked overnight, drained, simmered in chicken stock

  until tender, peeled

1 – 2 Tbsp. olive oil

4 Japanese eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes

one yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced

1 – 2 tsp. Mediterranean spices

pinch red pepper flakes (optional)

2 garlic cloves, peeled and diced

1/4C white wine

1-1/2C whole tomatoes, pureed

1 Tbsp. tomato paste

2 Tbsp. fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced

Heat olive oil in a sauté pan; add the eggplant cubes and sauté 3 – 4 minutes.  Add the onion slices, spices and red pepper flakes and sauté until soft.  Add the garlic.  Add the white wine and reduce to 2 tablespoons.  Add the tomatoes and tomato paste and cook until thickened.  Stir in the chickpeas and basil.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

MAKES:  6 – 8 servings

Turkey

Turkey – April 2011

It was a long, rainy drive from Aleppo, Syria to Turkey but the countryside along the way was lush green and soo lovely.  Once we crossed the border it seemed we had arrived in a Western country.  We stopped in the fairly large city of Urfa for a delicious lunch of spicy lamb adana kebabs/pita bread/tomatoes and onions and then had an hour of free time to explore.  I visited the citadel for a great view of the city but it was almost to cold to do more.  We changed into long skirts, required for our visit to the homestay, and Omar drove us to the little Kurdish village of Yuvacali where he and his British wife Allison now live.  We sat on the floor of the living room and Allison told us of her decision to follow Omar from their beautiful apartment in Istanbul back to his Kurdish village in the hills to help the people.  Our hostess prepared a delicious meal of lentil soup, lahmacun (flatbread filled with spicy meat, folded over and cooked on the griddle outside) and cold juicy oranges.  We slept on mattresses spread out on the floor and used the outhouse outside.  In the morning each of us took a turn at rolling out bread, cooking it on the wood fired “oven” and then communally we all spread it with honey, homemade sheep’s cheese and jam for breakfast. 

Later that morning, we took nice walk through the surrounding countryside amidst the pottery fragments everywhere and then Omar drove us to the ferry which took us across the water to a little village where we had lunch in a private home.  We ate cucumber/tomato salad, bulgur rice pilaf, eggplant chicken stew served in platters set on a table cloth spread on the floor.  At 4 p.m., dressed in everything I had brought with me, we climbed Mt. Nemrut.   The mountain was blanketed in snow but since it was not “snowing” we were allowed to climb to the summit.  Antiochos I built this famous sanctuary of colossal heads as a funerary monument.  On the Eastern terrace there are stone bodies of eagles, lions, Alexander the great, etc. and the heads are on a level below.  It was very impressive as you can imagine!!!  We stayed in a nearby hotel and luckily had an electric heater in our room which kept us warm throughout the night.

After a nice hearty breakfast we drove to Goreme.  On our way we stopped at the underground city of Kaymakli, one of 36 in the Cappadocia and the widest, and visited 4 of its 8 storeys.  Underground cities were constructed for security reasons and their chambers (chapels, silos, cellars, etc.) are linked by corridors and narrow staircases.  We checked into Hotel Kose in Goreme and had some free time to wander the streets and climb among the breathtaking “fairy chimneys”, awesome valleys and rock formations created from the erosion of rain and wind.  A meze platter for dinner at Nazar Bork consisted of roasted eggplant, roasted peppers, feta cheese, yogurt cheese and pita bread and then a few local guys picked up some instruments and played some wonderful Turkish music…

In the morning I took a walk around town and saw some of the hot air balloons floating above the rock formations.  We all met a 9 a.m. for a lovely walk up into the rocks where hidden caves housed churches with frescoed ceilings, pillars and altars.  Lunch at Nazar Bork and a piece of his delicious baklava and then we met at a carpet shop next door for a very enlightening commentary on the different kinds of rugs made in turkey.  Dinner at Fat Boys.

A 20 minute walk from the center of town, the Open-air Museum is a world heritage site is a must see.  It is filled with rock-cliff byzantine churches, chapels and monasteries.  It is easy to spendt the whole morning just wandering around.  After lunch we took the local bus to Ankara where we caught the 10 p.m. overnight train to Istanbul.  I was surprised how elegant the restaurant in the train station was and thoroughly enjoyed my chicken kebab/rice dinner before we boarded. 

The train arrived about 7:30 a.m. in Istanbul and we walked to the hotel, our last stop as a group.  By this time we were more than ready to go our separate ways – at least I know I was!!!  My Hotel Sapphire (https://hotelsapphire.com/home.html)  was just around the corner and it was a perfect choice for many reasons, i.e. great location, friendly staff, delicious buffet breakfast, quiet and reasonable room.  My room was not ready when I arrived so they offered me breakfast while I waited.  After the overnight train ride and the freezing cold weather I was delighted to enjoy fresh scones, cheeses, honey, olives, tomatoes, eggs, fruit, coffee, etc. etc. in the nice warm dining room before showering and heading out into the great city of Istanbul.

The blue mosque was my first stop as it dominates the skyline with its six minarets.  Construction was started in 1609 and it took 7 years to complete.  Inside the high ceiling is lined with the 20,000 blue tiles that give the mosque its popular name.  On to the Great Palace Mosaic Museum which houses mosaics from the byzantine period under to decorate the pavement of a peristyle court.  Hunger drove me to the Galata Bridge built in 1992 which spans the Golden Horn.  Nearby there are traditional boats tied to the quay on which fish fillets are grilled and stuffed inside half loaves of bread along with some spices and onions.  You can sit down at a low table overlooking the Bosphoros and enjoy the delicious flavors!!!  The Hagia Sofia was my next stop.  Built between 532 – 537 A.D. by the byzantine emperor, Justinian, it was converted into a mosque in 1453 and points in the direction of Mecca.  It is now a museum and known for its massive dome and incredible mosaics.  I took a bus to the elegant Asitane Restaurant (www.asitanerestaurant.com/English/) for dinner.  After much research, their menu is only comprised of dishes from the of the Ottoman palace kitchens.  I had the Asitane “treats” to start – four little oval spreads, i.e. crushed chickpease w/currants and pinenuts, “lor” cheese blended with rosemary, creamy fava beans and pounded cucumber salad with pistachios, each set atop a cucumber slice, crisp piece of bread, etc.  My “main” course was the crisp cheese bourek filled with olives and walnuts.  A special treat was the guitarist who played soft Turkish music during the evening.

The next day was pouring rain but I decided to visit the Topkapi Palace nevertheless as did many (!!) other people.  This was the official residence of the Ottoman sultans from 1465 – 1856 and is now a museum.  It contains large collections of porcelain, robes, Ottoman miniatures, treasure and jewelry.  Also within the palace are the harem quarters where approximately 300 concubines lived in luxury guarded by eunuchs.  I walked down to the pier and took a ferry across the Bosphoros to Kadokoy on the Asian shore where I had a fabulous lunch at Ciya Sofrasi (www.ciya.com.tr) . You can choose what and how much you want from a multitude of delicious dishes.  I had rice, lentils/bulgur, stuffed sun-dried tomatoes, sun-dried spicy cheese, couscous, homemade puffed pita bread for about $3.  Afterwards I wandered in the nearby markets filled with fish, vegetables and pastries and didn’t even mind the rain...Stopped at the covered Grand Bazaar filled with lively shops and people before calling it a day.

After another outstanding buffet breakfast, I took a bus to the incredible Byzantine Chora Church.  It is well worth a visit as its interiors are covered with the world’s finest mosaics and frescos.  After the arrival of the Turks in Istanbul in the 16^th century, this church was converted into a mosque, like the Hagia Sophia.  In 1948 it was made into a museum.  Next stop the Islamic Art Museum housed in the restored Palace of Ibrahim Pasa.  Inside are Turkish carpets, illuminated Kur-ans, carved and inlaid wood as well as a fully-furnished nomad’s tent.

The Basilic Cistern was next on my list.  Built in the 6^th century to provide water for the city, this cathedral size cistern is an underground chamber now virtually empty of water.   Its walkways and atmospheric lighting were installed in 1990 and soft music plays as you wander about.   By this time I was hungry for another fish sandwich so walked to the Galata Bridge where I sat a few minute and enjoyed my warm lunch.  I took the little tunnel train across to the Beyoglu, the heart of the more modern district of Istanbul, and walked the pedestrian, shopping street of Istiklal Caddesi.  Ambling down the street and off into the little alleyways filled with cafes and bars took about an hour, ending in the

Taksim Square

.  I had spotted a little restaurant on my way so returned to Sofyali 9 for a delicious walnut spread with pita bread, an Israeli couscous salad with peppers and olives and a little warm piece of cheese Bourek.  I ended evening with a long, leisurely walked back to the hotel as the lights lit up the streets.

My last day in Istanbul was spent cruising down the Bosphoros from the Galata Bridge.  The boat passed by beautiful palaces, hotels, grand summer residences built by the Ottomans and little wooden houses turned into restaurants.  We stopped in Anadolu Kavagi for a few hours where I walked up to the Medievel Castle and then relaxed in a restaurant overlooking the sea until the boat cruised back to the pier.  I returned to Ciya Safrasi for my last lunch and it was just as delicious as before.  I bought a little Turkish lamp with some of my remaining lira and had the delicious rice pudding everyone had been telling me about at MADO.  One last look at the Blue Mosque by night and my trip was over…

Prosciutto Chicken

6 chicken breast halves, skinned and boned

6 slices provolone cheese

12 thin slices prosciutto

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1/2C chicken stock

1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature

2 Tbsp. basil leaves thinly sliced

Salt and pepper the chicken breasts.  Make a slit in the center of each and fill with provolone cheese slices, folding slices over until the fit inside the breast.  Roll breasts around the cheese.  Lay pieces prosciutto on a cutting board, two pieces side by side and wrap each chicken breast in two pieces.

Preheat a cookie sheet in a 400F oven.  Heat a sauté pan, add oil and heat.  Sauté the chicken breasts until golden on all sides.  Transfer to the hot cookie sheet and bake about 10 minutes or until cooked through.

Meanwhile, add chicken stock to the sauté pan and reduce to 2 tablespoons.  Add the butter and turn off the heat.  Whisk the butter until a sauce consistency, add the basil, salt and pepper to taste.

Remove chicken from the oven and slice each in half.  Serve with sauce.

MAKES:  6 servings