Northern California – August/September 2020 

I decided to take a road trip up into the redwoods to see how easy it would be.  My friend drove me to the SNA airport where there were very few people and I got there with enough time to enjoy a coffee sitting alone at one of the tables spread around the airport.  Flight was full, center seats unused and everyone wearing masks for the short 1 hour 15 minute flight to OAK.  Took the Bart into the city which was the only public transport I used.

I booked a stay at the Hilton (got a good price through booking.com) with a private bathroom as I wanted to stay somewhere well known and in the union square area.  Walked over to the Embarcadero and up to Fisherman’s Wharf, stopping for grilled octopus at Coqueta on Pier 5 known for its tapas.  Weather was rather cold and a bit windy which made mandatory outside dining a bit tough…Regrouped at the hotel to get warm and then walked to Waterbar on the Embarcadero and had a wonderful dinner outside overlooking the Bay Bridge, lit up so beautifully at night.  Enjoyed grilled figs with goat cheese and peach puree, tuna tartar with rice crackers and a luscious sticky toffee pudding with whipped cream.

In the morning I walked to the ferry building and picked up a cinnamon roll from Acme bakery and some coffee and sat outside on the one of the large benches by myself overlooking the Bay Bridge.  Took a walk before picking up my rental car at Enterprise nearby.  So far so good!!

Because of the wild fires I was not sure if some of the roads heading north would be closed so I drove Highway 1 to Bodega Bay, stopped at the Fisherman’s Café for some grilled fish tacos, sitting outside by myself and then on to Gualala where I stayed at St. Orres in a creekside cabin for a couple nights.  As it was so cold the restaurant was only doing take out that night, so I ordered an appetizer portion of the mushroom raviolis with spinach (which I have had before and they are to die for!) and a slice of ginger cake with custard sauce and whipped cream – both excellent.  Sat in my cabin at a little table overlooking the meadow and made some hot tea to go with my nice meal.

In the morning, I picked up some complimentary fruit in the kitchen and then drove down to 2 Fish Bakery in Stewart’s Point for coffee and a pecan sticky bun.  Sat outside by myself at one of the benches and enjoyed my little breakfast.  It is a great bakery and I always go there for breakfast.  St. Orres does a breakfast bento box which they leave on your porch but I much prefer the pastries and ambiance of 2 Fish…

 

Headed North and stopped at Manchester Beach for a leisurely walk and then to Philo for a delicious lunch at the Bewildered Pig, an adorable café that has gotten excellent reviews.  Weather was warm and sitting outside was not problem.  Tables were 6 feet apart, covid rules in place and the restaurant was fully booked…Had a Nicoise Salad with freshly grilled tuna, green beans, tapenade, etc. and a lemon tart with meringue on top for dessert.  Drove back to Gualala and had some tea and a linzer cookie (picked up from 2 Fish that morning) for “dinner” as my lunch was quite filling.  Was able to turn on the heat in my cabin as it was pretty c o l d!!

Another delicious coffee, cinnamon roll (only made on the weekends!) and fruit from St. Orres in the morning at 2 Fish.  Such a great way to start the day.  Stopped in Point Arena at Fanny Café as I had heard it was fabulous and the baker had worked at Chez Panisse.  Picked up a salted pecan brownie for later.  Walked Manchester beach again and then drove to Mendocino where I had lunch at Café Trillium outside on the patio.  A nice warm day so it was delightful.  Had grilled fish tacos with cabbage slaw and warm peach/blackberry pie with ice cream.  There were a lot of people in town so I was careful as I wandered the streets a bit. 

Arrived in Phillipsville about 5:30 p.m. I had booked a little room (with private bathroom) through airbnb and picked up the key at a market nearby.  It was small, nice and clean and perfect as it was situated right on the Avenue of the Giants.  Made some hot tea later and enjoyed my yummy brownie for “dinner”.

Sunday all the coffee places were closed except for Daily Grind in Myers Flats which had terrible pastries but very good coffee.  Stopped by the visitor’s center and got a map and some great information on what to see.  Decided to spend the day along the Avenue of the giants where all the redwoods are.  It is only about 30 miles in length but filled with so much natural beauty.  First stop was the Women’s Grove, on to the Founder’s Grove where the Dyerville Giant (375 foot fallen tree) is located, to the Rockefeller Forest where I spent a couple hours taking a few different trails through the trees and finally up to Pepperwood to walk the Drury Churny loop trail.  Had another linzer cookie from 2 Fish Bakery and had my “lunch” before walking the trail which took about an hour and was very beautiful. 

Returned to my room for a shower and change of clothes and later drove to Benbow Historical Inn nearby for dinner on the patio overlooking the creek.  Treated myself to a class of wine and had a white melon salad with goat cheese and pea shoots, rock fish ceviche with jalapenos and tortilla chips and a tiny chocolate mousse in a very large glass with fresh raspberries.  Tables at least 6 feet apart and servers wore high tech masks as they took your order and served the food.  Nice…

Drove to Garberville in the morning for a freshly baked blueberry scone and coffee at Flavors.  Walked the Drury Churny trail again but more leisurely this time.  Stopped in Trinidad for lunch.  Was planning to eat at Seascape on the pier but it was cold and windy so I went to the Lighthouse Restaurant which was my second choice for take away.  Ordered blackened rockfish served over organic greens and a cup of tea and sat behind a tree nearby out of the wind.  Returned for a chocolate waffle cone which I ate in another secluded spot.  They are “famous” for their ice cream and it was very good.

Stopped at Patrick’s State Park and walked the rim trail, stopping at the viewpoints, i.e. Patrick’s Point, rocky point, etc. along the way; however, I missed the wedding rock as I ran out of time.  Plan to return on my way back.  It was a lovely park and a nice warm day to be walking.  Very few people on the trail and considerate as well, staying a safe distance away…

Drove to Crescent city and found my airbnb easily, a spacious room with private entrance and private bathroom about 10 minutes from town.  Hosts were very nice and suggested I hurry into town as the restaurants closed early.  They recommended Fisherman’s at the harbor so I drove over there immediately.  They had just started a “dine in” so I was able to sit inside which was great as it was cold and windy there as well.  Ordered a cup of clam chowder which came piping hot and delicious and finished with hot tea and chocolate pie, also delicious!  They closed promptly at 8 p.m. so I was lucky to get there with only a little time to spare…

Stopped by Java Hut in the morning, but all the coffee places are drive through so ended up at Sally’s by the Sea as their pastries are supposed to be fabulous!!!  Got a cinnamon roll (hot from the oven) and a red eye and sat in my car and enjoyed my breakfast…There were no tables outside and it was rather cold anyway so this worked for me.  Drove to Jedediah  Smith Redwoods State Park to see the Stout Grove but it was a 4 mile walk in so I just took an hour hike among the tallest trees in the world then headed down to Prairie Creek State Park driving the Newton B. Drury Scenic route.  First stop was prairie creek where I hiked around for a bit and then to the Big tree, 286 feet high and estimated to be 1500 years old and finally to the visitors center where I got some information on fern canyon.

Sat at a little table and had my last 2 fish linzer cookie before driving towards fern canyon.  Parked about a mile from the trail as there was a rather deep creek I would have had to cross in my tiny Chevrolet and I didn’t want to get stuck!!  Once I got there the hike was gorgeous, over board walk covered creeks, along trees, etc. to a wall of ferns.  It was well worth the walk in.  A really nice lady stopped for me on my way back and gave me a lift (a bottle of water and some chips!!!) back to my car.  Really nice.

Returned to my room, showered and changed into something nice.  Drove to Brookings, Oregon about a half hour away and had a “dine in” dinner at the Black Trumpet which was really easy to find.  Started with a yellow and red beet salad with goat cheese, arugula and candied nuts, spicy shrimp to follow with a nice glass of wine.  Finished with a slice of very rich 5 layer chocolate cake.  All excellent and it was nice to be inside as well. 

Stopped by Sally’s again in the morning for a warm cinnamon roll and coffee and sat in my car as before then drove to Patrick’s State Park again to see the things I had missed.  Took the rim trail again and turned off at the Ceremonial rock sign and followed the trail to the ancient rock which rises 107 feet above the meadows with a great view of the ocean.  Steep staircase so had to be careful but it was lovely at the top.  Next stop was the Wedding Rock, a massive boulder, also a bit hard to climb, with great views.  From there you could go down to the tide pools but I didn’t…

Stopped in Garberville at Flavors for a cream cheese brownie, hot tea and a cup of fresh fruit before heading to Mendocino where I stayed at the Trillium Lodge where the café is located.  It was closed the night I was there…

Wandered around the city a bit before heading south to Little River and dinner on the patio at Wild Fish, my best meal of the trip!  Weather was nice so it very pleasant sitting outside near the ocean.  Ordered the endive salad with nectarines, frisee and pumpkin seeds topped with a crispy skin blackened salmon which was perfectly cooked.  Had a glass of wine and finished with a warm sticky toffee pudding.  It was delightful.  They have another location in Pacific Grove which I plan to try next time I am there. 

Walked to the Good Life Café for coffee and a pumpkin muffin in the morning with seating outside on the patio and took a nice walk along the cliffs in the state park.  Called the fire department to make sure the road to Calistoga was open and then drove to Solbar in the Solage Resort.  It was a beautiful day to sit outside by the pool.  Ordered the rock fish tacos with cabbage and tomatillo salsa and ended with butterscotch pudding with caramel beads.  Stopped to see my brother in Napa and then checked into the Cedar Gables Inn where I stayed the night.  Wandered to the Oxbow Market and down Main Street to see what the city was like now.  Had planned to dine at Torc but ended up at Grace’s Coastal Kitchen instead… Had a piece of their famous cornbread, a Nicoise Salad with freshly grilled ahi tuna and a slice of delicious chocolate layer cake.  My Inn was close by so I walked back.

Stopped by the Monday Bakery on Second Street in the morning and picked up a pecan sticky bun that looked really good.  Also stopped by the Paris Bakery nearby on Brown Street where the pastries looked amazing but there was nowhere to sit…Ended up at the Oxbow market, picking up coffee at the Model Bakery and sitting at one of the many benches by myself, leisurely enjoying the coffee and sticky bun (both excellent). 

Drove across the Bay Bridge to San Francisco and returned the car.  Walked up to the Chancelor Hotel on Powell Street which is very nice and centrally located.  Wandered over to Waterbar on the Embarcadero for lunch outside overlooking the bay bridge.  This time it was warm and sunny and my tuna tartar with rice crackers and sticky toffee pudding with whipped cream were just as good as when I had had them for dinner a week ago!

Wandered south along the Embarcadero to Orchard park where the Giants were playing (without fans) and then sat outside behind the ferry building and read my book for a bit…Later I walked to Chambers Eat + Drink for dinner outside under some heat lamps as it was a bit chilly.  Had grilled salmon with succotash and corn puree followed by a flourless chocolate cake with hazelnut cream.  It was quite nice.

In the morning I stopped at the ferry building for a cinnamon roll at Acme and some delicious coffee at an organic little tent.  Saturday market was going strong with vendors selling fruits and vegetables, food stands selling breakfast combos, etc.  I was amazed at all the people.  I found a bench and enjoyed the vibes.  Took a nice walk, checked out and took the Bart to the airport.  Don’t know where my mind was but I ended up at the San Francisco Airport and was leaving from the Oakland Airport!! With a great deal of stress I hopped back on the Bart to the Colosseum and then the Bart bus to the airport.  Luckily I had no bags to check and with TSA approval I made it with about 5 minutes to spare!  Had a great time!

 

Oman – January/February 2020 - Part 2

Taxi came in the morning to my hotel in Muscat and I arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare.  Going through security was a breeze so I found a coffee shop and enjoyed my favorite chocolate chip muffin and coffee as I waited for the flight up to Khasab.  I stayed at the Khasab Hotel in town and they picked me up at the airport which was about 10 minutes away. 

Checked in to the hotel and then walked up to the Khasab Fort worked by the Portuguese in the seventeenth century.  The castle was first redesigned in 1990 and again in 2007.  There is an excellent museum in the circular tower with information on fishing boats, architecture, etc. and upstairs are apartments and kitchens with furnishings of how people lived.  In the courtyard are several interesting ships and a house of locks built by a master craftsman.  Well worth a couple hours!

Walked up to Lulu Hypermarket and sat outside by the water at a little restaurant inside.  Had a delicious shawarma with chicken while beautiful classical music played.  Leisurely walked back to the hotel.  There is really nothing else to see in town…Hotel dropped me off at Al Shamaliah where I fresh grilled fish, tabbouleh salad and bread which were all delicious.

The breakfast buffet was rather dismal but there was some delicious dates and honey to put on the toast.  Took a Dhow boat trip in the Musandam fjords for the day and it was fabulous.  There were only 6 of us on our wooden boat and we sailed through a variety of rock formations branching in and out of the ocean with stunning views and it was a really nice sunny day.  Stopped at Telegraph Island to swim which felt wonderful.  Water was warm and refreshing.  Stopped again at Seebi Island but only a few swam there.  Saw some dolphins off and on throughout the day, some running along the side of the boat.  They put out a really nice lunch with warm chicken, fish, rice, salad and tea and water were available all day.  It was a lovely day.  After a nice hot shower and a rest the hotel took me to Aroos Musandam Restaurant where I had the best menu in Khasab, i.e. chicken tikka with yogurt sauce and biryani rice followed by a glass of lightly sweetened mint tea.  Got a ride back to the hotel.

Walked up to Atana Musandam resort after breakfast, located in the northern tip of the Musandam penisular.  It is a beautiful hotel where many of the rooms have a view of the waterway.  I did not stay here but wandered around a bit and then had a delicious lunch outside on the patio at Al Mawra.  My crisp falafel sandwich was freshly made and their signature chocolate dessert was amazing!  It was a cup of chocolate/nut and cream custard topped with a wafer of chocolate and the server poured a rich chocolate sauce over the top, melting the wafer and pouring into the cream.  It was sooo good!  Walked back to the hotel where a guide picked me up at 2:30 p.m. for a tour of Khasab.  Drove the Khasab – Tibat road, a feat of engineering with spectacular views across the Straits of Hormuz.  Stopped at the Bukha fort which was interesting and then stopped at the UAE border.  Watched the sunset from the beach.  Had dinner at Wadi Qata which was rather disappointing, grilled fish, rice and tomato/cucumber salad.  There was no one else in the restaurant and it needed a lot of updating…

Got to the airport in plenty of time in the morning for my 12:30 p.m. Oman Air flight to Muscat and on to Salalah but the flight was delayed so much that when I arrived in Muscat I missed my connecting flight to Salalah.  I had booked my connection with Salem Air and they would not help me with another flight.  A lesson learned.  Had I booked both flights with Oman Air I would not have had to purchase another connecting flight.  However, even though there was no space on the 7:00 p.m. flight to Salalah the Oman Air manager made sure I was on that flight which I appreciated.    My airbnb host Mustafa met me at the airport and took me to the studio next to the Millenium Resort which worked out perfectly.  We walked over to the Resort and I talked with the manager about perhaps having breakfast there for the next five mornings I would be there and he worked out something fabulous for me.

In the morning I walked over to the resort and was offered one of the most wonderful buffets ever, pancakes, Arabian breads, fresh yogurt and fruit, eggs, honey, dates, cakes, etc. plus any type of coffee desired.  I sat outside by the pool every morning and started my day in heaven!!!

Took a taxi to the Frankincense Museum in the morning where I learned about the historic and maritime heritage of Salalah.  I particularly enjoyed the Maritime Hall which dealt with the skills of seafaring and housed several very interesting traditional vessels.  Took a walk around the Al Baleed Archaelogical Park and then went into town and wandered around the fish and vegetable market until meeting Mustafa who would be my guide for the next five days.  We had a very nice lunch at an Indian restaurant nearby, i.e. butter chicken and naan bread and then to the Sumhuram Archaeological Park where we wandered around the ruins.   Stopped at Wadi Darbat to see the waterfalls and took a nice walk.  Every evening we stopped at a beach so I had about an hour to walk alone and see the sunset on my return…We went to the old souq which was rather small but quite nice where I picked up a couple stuffed camels for my grandsons, not realizing until I got home that they were musical as well!!

We picked out some fresh fish and shrimp at the fish market and looked around the market as it was prepared for us.  Sat outside and thoroughly enjoyed the fresh flavor and spices of the fish.  Afterwards we stopped at a special konafa bakery where we shared this delicious dessert which I had had in Muscat as well.  We spent a great deal of time eating together which I thoroughly enjoyed!!

In the morning we drove to the eastern part of Salalah and visited Ayn Razat, the most important source of spring water in Dhofar.  The water flows 7 km to Al-Mamurah Palace, the sultan’s residence when in Salalah.  On to Ayn Athum, one of the most beautiful limestone waterfalls in Salalah.  To Mughsail Beach to see the blowhole but it was quite small. Stopped at a Turkish restaurant for lunch and sharad chicken kebabs and cheese bread, Turkish bread and pita bread!!!   Mustafa picked up an assortment of sweets and we stopped for coffee to enjoy them.  I walked for a bit on Mughsail Beach which was lovely.

We stopped at Souly Eco Lodge, a unique lodge constructed with natural and local materials like stones and recycled wood from the Salalah area.  The bungalows are near the ocean and it looked really nice.  Saw some frankincense trees, camels, irrigation systems, etc.  It was a lovely day.  Dinner at a Pakistani restaurant Al Ghad where we shared spicy butter chicken, kingfish, naan bread, an okra dish and ended with rice pudding and a coconut dessert.  Great food!!  Food in Oman has been really amazing.

Visited Mirbat Castle in the morning, a beautiful location on the beach.  The fort is nicely restored and provides good information about the 1972 Battle of Mirbat.  Stopped by the resort nearby, walked on the beach and then had a cheese “pie” for lunch as there were few restaurants around.  We stopped in Darbat and took a nice boat ride on Wadi Darbat.  Later that evening we went to a camel restaurant where we sat in our own little room on the floor and shared camel shwarma, tiny camel kebabs from young camels and slow cooked camel meat with yemen bread along with some hot tea.  Stopped at another café for kanafe but it was not quite as good as the first one…

Mustafa was busy the following day so his friend Jacob was my guide which turned out very well.  We talked about Oman and he shared some insight into how it is to live in Oman.  First stop was the Sultan Qaboos Mosque which towers over the city and is exquisitely beautiful.  Inside the crystal chandelier hangs from an intricately carved dome and a 20-ton handwoven carpet covers the floor.  On to Taqah Castle about 33 kilometers east of Salalah.  It was built in the 19^th century and used to be a private residence for a tribal leader.  It became the property of the government in the first half of the 20^th century and is now a museum.  The rooms of the castle are now used to display numerous exhibits such as weapons and cookware and showcases the old Omani way of life.  I really enjoyed this one.  On to Nabi Youns’ tomb also known as the tomb of Job set high in the lttin mountains and the beautiful area of Ayn Garziz..  There is his grave, his foot print, an old praying area and water spring.  Stopped at Nabi Umran’s tomb in the center of the city.  It is a very long and impressive tomb.

Jacob dropped me off at the mall so I could look around and have a coffee and cake at Costa Coffee for a change from all those heavy lunches!!!  Mustafa met me about 2:00 p.m. and we wandered around the vegetable and cheese section of the mall.

Wandered around the caves and springs of Ayn Razat and then took a walk on the beach near the Millenium and watched the sun set.  Dinner again at Al Ghad where we sat in a little room of our own and shared barbecued chicken, king fish, dal and garlic naan.  Also tried a couple of new desserts but they were very sweet.  My last dinner in Salalah!

Had a delicious breakfast at Millenium outside by the pool complete with espresso.  Mustafa met me about 10 a.m. and we went to the mall for our last “meal” together.  We shared a delicious flourless chocolate cake with a gooey inside topped with ice cream and complimented with another rich espresso at dip dip chocolate.  Really fun.  Took my last walk on the beach and then to the airport where I caught a flight back to Muscat.  

My host from the airbnb picked me up and later we went to dinner at Kargeen Café.  Kargeen is the old Omani word for a little wooden cottage and this modern restaurant combines old cosiness with a modern lounge experience.    Sat outside among the trees filled with dozens of lights and some of the cooking was going on outside as well.  The menu is filled with traditional Omani dishes but I decided just to have a meze platter, Arabian bread and some crisp Omani herb bread which was all delicious.

In the morning I walked along the corniche to the National Museum which contains 14 permanent galleries – The Land and the People, Splendors of Islam, Renaissance, etc.  A fabulous collection.  Walked back to the old souq where I caught a taxi to quram beach for a last walk around.  Had dinner at Beach Restaurant in the Chedi Hotel, a very opulent place!  I sat outside overlooking the Arabian Sea and had a very nice (but very expensive) dinner, i.e. mussels with coconut milk, grilled tuna with barcolli beans and my first and only glass of wine in Oman.   A warm chocolate cake to finish.  My host picked me up and drove me to the airport where I caught the 2:15 a.m. flight to Frankfurt, on to Houston and finally Orange County where a friend picked me up.  It was really an amazing trip and I would highly recommend Oman to everyone!

Oman – January/February 2020 – Part I

A few years ago while in Dubai I booked a trip to the Musandam peninsula in Oman, filled with fjords and beauty but the guide never arrived so it has been on my mind every since.  This year I decided to visit Oman and see those fjords for myself.  Some friends of mine did the trip on their own but mentioned it would have been a lot better with a guide.  This information I took to heart and decided to do some of the trip on my own and some with G Adventures.

Left SNA on January 27 and arrived in Muscat on January 29.  Many long flights and layouts but as I used my United miles the trip was essentially free!!  I booked an airbnb in Mutrah near the souq and my host picked my up at the airport.  The airbnb was about a 15 minute walk to the corniche, the fish market, etc. which was a really good location.  I walked to the fish market to see the fresh fish and vegetables and then into the souq selling Omani and Indian artefacts and one of the oldest marketplaces in Oman dating back two hundred years.  Climbed up to the Mutrah fort built by the Portuguese in the 1580s and then into the Ghalya’s Museum which I thoroughly enjoyed.  This delightful museum is a reconstruction of what an Omani house would have looked like between 1950 and 1975.  There were beautiful wooden doors crafted from East Africa and some lovely jewelry and garments used for weddings.

Walked back to the souq along the corniche and found a little café upstairs where I had a nice Greek salad out on the patio.  Later that evening I walked to Bait al Luban, a traditional Omani restaurant, near the fish market and had a delicious shuwa lamb dinner on the patio.

In the morning I had some baklava and coffee with my host and then we visited the Al Bustan palace, a beautiful hotel set along the beach.  Stopped to see sohar, a replica of the boat which sailed to Guanzhou in China.  She dropped me at Bait al Zubair, a fabulous museum in old Muscat where I spent a couple hours learning about the life of the Omani with displays of traditional handicrafts, traditional clothes, face masks, swords and a replica of a traditional Omani house.  Walked to the Sultan’s palace and then took a taxi to the “cave” area where there are a lot of restaurants and had a nice Greek salad outside on the top at a Lebanese restaurant.  Taxi back to the souq and then walked to the Al Riyam Park where I started a walk back to the souq but it seemed too dangerous so I gave it up…

Later that evening I had a wonderful Indian dinner at Mamtaz Mahal.  My tandoori roasted cauliflower and tikka masala chicken with garlic naan were very tasty and I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere.

Worked something out with a friend of my host so didn’t have to rent a car.  He dropped me in the morning at Starbucks on Qurum Road near the beach and I had a “real” coffee and muffin.  There are no coffee shops in Mutrah and I had missed a cup of good coffee to start the day.  Wandered along the road to Qurum beach and found some cute little restaurants and shops.  Had a coffee and cake at Costa Coffee overlooking the sea and then walked to the Qurum Natural Park and enjoyed the beautiful waterfalls and paths filled with plants and flowers. 

Dinner at the Turkish House was really nice.  Decided to dine in the old part serving seafood and started with a meze platter filled with hummus, eggplant and Turkish bread followed by nicely grilled fish.

Another delicious coffee and muffin at Starbucks the next morning, before being dropped off at the Grand Mosque, a gift from Sultan Qaboos to mark his 30^th year of reign.  He died this year and was much loved.  The mosque can accommodate 20,000 worshippers and the prayer carpet is a major feature of the design of the interior.  Also of note is the extraordinary chandelier above the praying hall.  While visiting the mosque was the only time I needed to wear a head scarf.

Got a ride up to the Al Ameen white marble mosque on the hill.  I was fortunate it was still open so I could see the hand carved works of art in stone inside in the form of Islamic patterns and calligraphy.  Breathtaking inside and out.  Caught another ride to the Royal Opera House and took a guided tour.  Considered one the most beautiful and technically advanced opera houses in the world, it was fascinating to see how many ways it could be transformed.  Because Sultan Qaboos was so musical no music or musical performances are allowed for 40 days in Oman out of respect for this great man…

In the afternoon, I walked along the Qurum Beach to Costa Coffee where I enjoyed a delicious coffee and cheesecake overlooking the sea.  Taxi back to Mutrah.  Got a ride to Shabestan, a Persian restaurant later that evening and had an excellent meal, i.e. side platter of arugula, feta, olives and bread, chicken kebabs marinated in lebnah, saffron and lemon and three rice.

Walked along the corniche almost to old Muscat and back in he morning and then was dropped off at my new hotel where the G Adventures trip would begin.  I had thought about renting a car and doing this part by myself but decided I would probably miss many things without a guide and a 4 wheel drive car.  Walked to the beach nearby and stopped at the W Hotel to see their lovely bar/tapas area called Living Room which was very ecletic.  On to Costa Coffee for a coffee and chocolate cheesecake, always  enjoying the view of the sea.  Our group meeting was at 6 p.m.  There will be 12 of us, some from Australia, England, Scotland, etc.  Our guide was from Oman.  Got a nice briefing of what’s to come and then I walked down to LoKanta where my former host works and she sat me at a lovely table upstairs.  It is an upscale Turkish restaurant and I enjoyed my meal, i.e. meze platter with hummus, eggplant, yogurt and cucumbers and roasted pepper dip with warm bread, grilled lamb kebabs with vegetables and a spectacular dessert called kunafe made with kadif and warm cheese drizzled with a light syrup.

Nice breakfast buffet in the morning and then to the Grand Mosque again, this time with a guide which made the visit more memorable.  Dropped by the souq in Mutrah where I had already been and then to the Museum in Old Muscat where I had also been but enjoyed seeing some of the exhibits again.  Lunch at Le Cave at a Turkish restaurant where we all shared a large meze platter, lamb and chicken kebabs, grilled fish, salad with feta cheese and cucumbers and a light mango custard for dessert.  On our own for the afternoon.  Took a walk to the beach as it is close by and made some flight reservations for my upcoming trip to Salalah.

In the evening I walked up to the Crown Plaza hotel on the hill and had a delicious tuna tartar outside on the patio overlooking the sea.  Unfortunately my chocolate dessert was terrible and I had to send it back but on my way out I was offered some nice Arabian desserts which I ate on my way back to the hotel…

In the morning we drove along the coast towards the picturesque Bimmah Sinkhole, a limestone “lake” of turquoise waters about 60 m deep, perfect for swimming.  Continued on to Sur, stopping along the way at a local restaurant where I had delicious grilled fish with naan bread and a simple salad.  Stopped at the Dhow Shipyards to see how craftsmen build dhows, the teak boats the traditional way, without plans.  Unfortunately now people prefer to build fiberglass boats because they are much cheaper to make and easier to maintain.  Drove along the corniche to our hotel.  Had a nice Omani date cake and ice cream with tea before leaving for Ras El Jinz about 8:30 p.m.to visit the turtle sanctuary.  As it was not the season to see the turtles it was a futile trip as there were none to see…

After breakfast on the patio, we drove in 4 wheel drive cars towards Wadi Bani Khalid, a rocky oasis nestled in the East Hajar mountains filled with natural pools.  There was a rather difficult walk to a low cave which was interesting to see if you had a flashlight.  I crawled in just far enough to see inside and it was worth the walk.  Stopped for a snack and then into the dunes where we climbed around and watched the sunset before settling into our desert lodge at Wahabi Sands.

Met in the lodge for a buffet dinner, i.e. chicken kebabs, rice, cucumber salad, breads, hummus and several cakes and Arabian desserts.

Pancakes and honey for breakfast with delicious dates served at every meal.  Leaving the desert behind, we headed towards Ibra and stopped to visit the Jabrin castle which dates back to about 600 years ago and has undergone an extensive renovation.  It is filled with history of how life was in Oman and there are many rooms inside all of which served a specific purpose, i.e. a special room where dates were crushed into liquid.   We spent about an hour enjoying all the lovely rooms.  Stopped at a little café for a falafel sandwich and then at the historic fortress of Bahla but didn’t go in unfortunately…  Saw some racing camels with remote controls which was very interesting.  Children used to ride them but now it is done by remote control!!!  Arrived in Nizwa about 5 p.m. and wandered through the old and new souqs, sampling dates and halvah.  We had time on our own so I visited the Nizwa Fort and Castle which was fabulous.  The castle part was filled with interesting exhibits about making indigo, how the palm trees are used, etc. housed in the beautiful rooms of the past.

Picked out a fresh fish for dinner at a little restaurant nearby and had it grilled along with a Greek salad.  Checked into our hotel, a bit far from town.

Early breakfast and then into Nizwa for the goat market which was great fun.  People were crowded around as goat sellers paraded their goats calling out the price until someone was interested.  Also stopped by the vegetable and fish markets and the weapons market where antique guns and knives were sold.  Stopped by LuLu Hypermarket to pick up a salad for lunch and then on to Al Hamra to visit the traditional mud houses of Misfat Al Abriyeen.  The village boasts amazing agricultural terraces, beautiful alleys and old houses built on top of solid rocks and learn about the Falaj network, Oman’s ancient water supply system.  Returned to Nizwa via Jebel Shams where we had a picnic overlooking Wadi Nakhr known as the Grand Canyon of Oman and then walked down into the “snake point” of the gorge which was a really nice walk. 

In the evening we all met in the lobby and drove to a nearby Turkish restaurant where we had a delicious dinner outside. I had chicken kebabs with yogurt sauce and Arabian bread and part of a spinach and cheese filled Turkish pizza which was really nice.

After breakfast in the morning, we drove through Wadi Bani Awf which offers some of the best off-road driving with beautiful scenery and stunning cliffs and canyons throughout.  Took a nice walk along the creek and continued to Snake Canyon where we picked up ice cream to hold us over until our late lunch.  Stopped at a really nice Turkish restaurant where we shared a kebab platter, meze of spreads, selection of breads and salads.  It was really delicious.  Arrived back in Muscat and had a few hours to take a walk along the beach. 

Later I walked down to Lokante where my friend works and had kanafe, the delicious dessert I had last time I was there and a cup of hot tea.  In the morning I fly to Khasab and finish the remainder of my time in Oman on my own which I am truly looking forward to!!!

Texas, October, 2019

Decided to visit Texas for the great country music and barbecue!!  Took a United basic flight which only allows you one carry on.  So, I HAD to check my roller bag and pay $30 to check it.  Also with the basic flight you have no seat choice and are the last to board.  Might NOT do that again!!!

Arrived in Austin about 5:30 p.m. and walked across the street to the Fox Rental Car – very convenient!  Used the GPS which I always bring to find my airbnb which was on the south side, a lovely studio and parking spot all to myself.  After unpacking I drove to Rainey Street for dinner at Emmer & Rye.  The street was filled with bars and discos with people dancing and music everywhere.  I was fortunate to find a parking spot which is not always the case…

Sat at a nice little upright table and had my first taste of Texas, red curry Johnny cakes with crème fraiche and peppers, chicken w/acorn squash and corn sauce and a little apple crumb tart with red wine ice cream.  It was delicious!  Decided to wait on the music until the following night.

Drove to Mozart’s Bakery on Lady Bird Lake in the morning for a blueberry bran muffin and great coffee.  A fabulous bakery with delicious pastries, outstanding coffee and great atmosphere to which I returned every morning.  Found a parking spot near lady bird lake and realized it was Sunday and parking is free everywhere.  Yes!!!  Walked around the lake for an hour and then wandered up Congress Avenue, the main street of town.

Visited the O Henry House where he lived for three years and where he wrote some great stories.  He was charged with embezzlement and had to flee the country for a few years but

after serving a prison sentence all turned out well for him.  Decided to visit the Blanton Museum of Art but first stopped at their little café for pumpkin bread and hot tea.  The museum was filled with an extensive art collection which I thoroughly enjoyed.  Walked back to my car and returned to my airbnb to regroup before heading to dinner at Barley Swine.  Had blackened redfish with couscous and acorn squash and tres leches with white chocolate.  Very nicely prepared.  Drove to the Elephant Room for jazz and parked where I had parked earlier because I knew my way from there.  Sat at a table with another guy near the front and the music was really good.  No cover charge and no requirement to buy a drink.  That worked for me!!!

Mozart’s in the morning and I parked on Gibson Street in South Congress for free until 5 p.m.  A bit of a walk to the Capitol but I didn’t have to worry about moving the car.  Took a guided tour of the Capitol building and learned about the many men and women who had served there and then wandered the grounds looking at the memorials and statues to different people and for different events…Walked down to 2^nd avenue for a delicious barbecue lunch at Lambert’s.  I had their tacos with brisket but the meat was so tender and delicious I skipped the tortillas and concentrated on the brisket and the salad that came with it.  Finished up with a rich chocolate peanut caramel pie with ice cream.

Drove over to the modern art museum but although it was closed for the day the sculpture gardens of Laguna Gloria nearby were open.  I enjoyed wandering along the lake and into the park to see all the interesting sculptures standing throughout the grounds.  Drove back to the airbnb to regroup and then headed out to Garrison in the Fairmont Hotel for dinner.  Self parking in the hotel garage and into a lovely restaurant that felt like you were in someone’s home, complete with porch!  Food was beautifully prepared and excellent.  I had the seared octopus with pumpkin seeds, mole sauce and acorn squash puree and finished with brulee lemon tart – as if I really needed more food after my barbecue lunch!!!

It was Monday night Bluegrass at the Radio on Manchaca and I really enjoyed the group.  We sat outside on benches and two banjos, a guitar and a fiddle played until 11 p.m.  It was grand!!!

Muffin and coffee at Mozart’s and a rainy day.  Very changeable weather which I wasn’t expecting.  Parked on Gibson and walked up Congress Avenue to the LBJ Library which was very interesting.  Before I visited the museum, I stopped at the Cathedral built by Ellsworth Peters which I forgot to go into when I visited the museum.  A beautiful little space with three blown glass windows and some black and white marble “pictures” on the walls.

The LBJ Library was all about the life of LBJ before, during and after his presidency and keyed in on what he had accomplished during his term of office.  There was also a special Motown exhibit of country western and rock music which was also really interesting.  Stopped by the Blanton Café again and had some tea and the brownie I had picked up at Mozart’s.

Since it was raining I just headed back to the airbnb to plan the next part of my trip.  About 6:30 p.m. I drove to the Broken Spoke music hall nearby and listened to honky tonk music for about an hour.  One lady played the accordion and piano like you wouldn’t believe; although her voice left something to be desired…Dinner at Ushiko on N. Lamar was fabulous!  Decided to compose my own tasting menu so started with eggplant tempura crisps and the waitress brought me some of their signature Brussels sprouts to try (excellent!!!), kanpachi crudo with amberjack fish, poblano and Asian pear, hot short rib with butternut squash puree and maitake mushrooms and milk cereal with chocolate mousse which a table nearby sent over to me “just because” which was very sweet.  I stopped by their table after dinner to thank them…

Muffin at Mozart’s and then drove to the botanical gardens even though it was raining.  The gardens were beautiful, especially the Japanese gardens but it was a bit tough to enjoy the beauty for the rain…Drove to Johnson City where I visited LBJ’s childhood home and learned a bit about his growing up years.  On to Fredericksburg where I stayed in an airbnb walking distance from the great main street of town.  Stopped for a hot tea and the ginger cookie from Mozart’s and then drove up to the Enchanted Rock Park where I checked in and walked the very lovely path to the rocks.  It was rainy and the path wasn’t marked very well and it was getting late so once I saw the rock I turned back.

Airbnb was cozy and warm and the host was out of town.  Lucky for me!  His cat wanted in so kept me company while I was there.  Drove a ways out of town to Cabernet Grill for dinner.  Great food!  Had a thick and creamy butternut squash soup, wild arugula salad with pecans, goat cheese and diced beets and a triple chocolate mousse cake that was moist and ever so good…

Found a cute bakery called Twisted Sisters for blueberry coffeecake in the morning and then walked up Main Street to the Pioneer Museum with housed several old buildings moved there from other locations, i.e. blacksmith shop, Sunday house, school, etc.  It was a great outside museum and showed how one used to live.  As it was very cold and I had not brought a jacket with me (big mistake!!!), I found a cute little jacket that kept me warm the rest of the trip. 

Drove the Willow City loop recommended in my Moon guidebook and it was a lovely drive.  I saw a few deer and beautiful landscape which would have been evenly lovelier if the leaves were changing.  Stopped at a little café called Emma and Ollie and had a creamy butternut squash soup and molasses cookie for lunch before driving on to Kerrville.  Found my airbnb a ways from town but a very nice little studio and then had dinner at Rails near the train depot.  It was a charming place and my grilled salmon salad with walnuts and goat cheese was the perfect dinner especially as it was followed by flourless chocolate cake which was divine.

Drove into town in the morning to PAX Coffee and had banana bread and nice coffee.  Walked along the creek nearby in the park which was a good way to start the day.  Spent about an hour in the Western Museum with its fabulous collection of bronze statues and paintings done by Texas artists.  Also some beautiful furniture made with Texas pine or maple trees. 

Back into town for lunch at Francisco, i.e. a cup of pumpkin soup and two pecan crusted fish tacos and then I drove out to Stonehenge II, a replica of Stonehenge as well as replicas of Easter-island statues.   On out to the Coming King Sculpture Prayer Garden where there is a 77 foot tall empty cross located up on a hill with excellent views of the city.  A nice place for some solitude time…

Drove into Bandera on S16 which was a beautiful drive and stayed at an airbnb where I had the whole top floor to myself.  Stopped in town and found Chikin Coop where live music would be playing until 11 p.m.  Drove out to the Backyard Bistro in Pipe Creek which was a local hangout with good food.  Had some crab cakes with red pepper sauce and chocolate pecan cake from a side board of bundt cakes!!!  Spent about an hour listening to country western music at the Chikin Coop later that night and meet some Texas ladies who had come in on their harley davidsons!!!  Music was great with drums, guitars and great songs.  People were dancing and having a great time.

Had a muffin at Cavangaugh Coffee on Main but it wasn’t that great… Drove to Lost Maples State Park in Vanderpool but it was a Saturday and there were no spots available.  I didn’t realize you needed to reserve ahead online…Instead I drove back into Bandera and found a very nice trail in the Hill Country State Park.

On to Boerne about 3:00 p.m. and arrived at the Moon Bakery just in time to have broccoli quiche and a ginger cookie before they closed their doors to guests arriving a few minutes after me.  Wandered down the Hauptstrasse of the very cute little town of Boerne before heading on to San Antonio.

My GPS lead me to a very sweet guesthouse on the southside with easy parking on the street.  Walked downtown to Bliss, a bustling restaurant with great food.  Had grilled octopus, a glass of wine and a chocolate dessert with popped corn – all delicious.  Am looking forward to the river walk!

Decided to go to Bakery Lorraine in the pearl area and it was a great choice!!!  Easy parking all day and the bakery was fabulous!!  Had a butternut squash muffin and rich strong coffee and then walked the river walk for about an hour which was gorgeous.  Drove over to Mission Jose founded in 1720 and took a guided tour and learned about the American Indians who lived in these missions run by the Franciscans.  Heard a Sunday service where the mariachi band played and it was very moving…Also stopped by Mission Juan with its unique architecture and rich fields.

Returned to Bakery Lorraine for a nice kale and barley salad and got hooked on their delicious ginger cookies.  Walked across the river to the Art Museum and really enjoyed the exhibits especially the Victorian Radicals with its excellent British art.  Wish I had allowed more time…Walked the river walk to downtown to see where the Alamo would be and then drove out to Savor Bistro for a very disappointing dinner…A new restaurant, quite chic, but the main chef was not working the night I was there and there were no other customers so my dinner was uninspiring…

After another delicious butternut squash muffin at Bakery Lorraine, I walked the river walk to the Alamo, which was originally Mission San Antonio de Valero, founded in 1718.  There was a very good video explaining all the history of the battle for independence which went on there, etc. Walked to La Villita Historic Arts Village area with its cute shops and local artist community and then to the San Fernando Cathedral founded in 1731 and the oldest standing church building in Texas.  Stopped by the Governor’s Palace but it was closed so I will see it another time. 

Lunch at Bakery Lorraine was a delicious egg salad on toasted bread with a ginger cookie.  Stopped by the Mission Espada, the oldest of the East Texas missions and then to Mission Conception which looks essentially as it did in the mid-1700s and was very impressive.

Drove to Biga on the Banks for dinner downtown and it was a challenge finding a parking spot!!!  Great restaurant, elegant and classy.  Had a fabulous dinner, i.e. arugula salad with smoked beets and goat cheese, scallops w/habernero sauce on grits and pineapple chutney and a trio of little desserts, i.e. toffee pudding, bourbon crème brulee and chocolate mousse.  How could it get any better than that!!!

Bakery Lorraine for coffee and a muffin and then walked along the river walk to the governor’s palace downtown.  It is a beautiful colonial style home built in the 17^th century, very simple but elegantly decorated with period furnishings. It represents the last visual remnants of the Presidio San Antonio de Bejar.  Walked back along the river walk to the King William neighborhood of historic homes near the San Antonio River.  Took a guided tour of the Villa Finale, the last home of local preservationist, Walter Nodd Mathis who was instrumental in the revitalization of the historic King William neighborhood and was a prodigious collector of fine and decorative art.  His 12,000 piece collection is everywhere to be seen in this exquisite mansion.  On down the street to the Steves Homestead Mansion owned at one time by Edward Steves, founder of the Steves Lumber Company still in operation today.  Took a quick peek into the Guenther House, once owned by Erhard Guenther, founder of the Pioneer Flour Mills.  It is now a museum as well as a restaurant located on the river.

Had read about the opening in October of Ruby City, a contemporary art center envisioned in 2007 by the late collector, philanthropist and artist Linda Pace but did not have time to visit.  It presents works of more than 900 paintings, sculptures, etc. and also includes Chris Park, a public green space named in memory of Pace’s son…

Walked back along the river walk taking a different route which passed by lots of outdoor cafes.  Returned to Bakery Lorraine for lunch and then drove to the historic town of Gruene where I stayed at the Gruene River Inn.  Wandered around the little quaint town, had grilled tuna salad and chocolate pecan pie at the famous Gristmill Restaurant and then enjoyed some country western music in the old Gruene Hall nearby. 

The breakfast at the Inn was rather dismal so I walked into town and had banana bread with excellent coffee at the Gruene Street Café.  Drove into nearby New Braunfels where I walked to Landa Park and along the lake.  Visited the Texas Furniture Museum and the docent was very enthusiastic so I spent almost two hours there.  The unique furniture was in an old house and had been made by the German immigrants who came to Texas almost 100 years ago.

Stopped at Uwe Bakery in town for a quick German pastry and then drove the Devil’s Backbone route to Wimberly, a lovely route.  My airbnb was a sweet little studio in the center of town so I could walk to the Leaning Pear where I had a curried butternut squash pizza with lemon ricotta/Anaheim chiles and a chili spiced chocolate terrine with pomegranate seeds. 

Walked to Sugar Shack near the Leaning Pear for coffee and a delicious pecan sticky bun in the morning and sat outside as it started to rain!!  Wandered a bit in the nearby Nature Preserve and then in and out of the art galleries and shops on River Road 12.  Stopped by the Texas Glass Works on my way out of town and enjoyed the demonstration of glass blowing and the beautiful items made in house.

On my way back to Austin, I stopped at the famous Salt Lick in Driftwood for legendary mouthwatering barbecue.  The parking lot is enormous as is the inside but as it was a rainy day and off season there was plenty of room and the service was fast.  My pork rib and brisket with some burnt ends were tender and moist with great flavor.  All plates include cole slaw, beans and potato salad.  Soooo delicious.  Finished with chocolate pecan pie and ice cream and then I was on my way back to Austin.  Keep in mind it is a “cash only” establishment!

Easily found my airbnb, this time in a nice spacious room with private bath in an art décor home with a delightful hostess.  A bit farther from town than last time but no problem getting around.  Drove to Holly Street to a restaurant called Launderette and it was fabulous!!  Easy parking and a funky little place filled to the brim with people and great fun.  Had grilled octopus with potatoes and paprika and a creamy chocolate dessert with “sunchokes”.  One of my favorite restaurants so far.  Stopped by the Broken Spoke and into the dance hall to hear the music and see everyone dancing and having a great time.

Tried a different muffin at Mozart’s, parked in my favorite spot and walked around Lady Bird Lake for about an hour.  Walked up to the Bullock Texas State History Museum and enjoyed the “Becoming Texas” exhibition with its journey through more than 16,000 years of Texas history starting with the early American Indians.  La Salle’s 300-year-old ship, La Belle, excavated off the Texas coast was on display which was fun to see.

Walked over to the Governor’s Mansion nearby where I had booked a tour for 2:30 p.m.  What I didn’t know was you are not allowed to bring even a purse inside.  Luckily a nice couple took my backpack to their car for me while we were on the tour…

This premier historic home has served as the official residence of Texas governors and their families since 1856 and is a lovely mansion.  It houses countless valuables including Sam Houston’s mahogany four poster bed and numerous pieces of valuable art and antique furniture.  Thankfully all of these items were removed and in storage when the building was targeted by arson in June 2008 and sustained major damage.

Walked down to Starbucks and had hot tea and a cookie from Mozart’s and then returned to the airbnb to regroup before dining at Lenoir on south 1^st street.  Had to wait awhile for my table as the restaurant is quite small but watched some of the plates come out of the kitchen so knew what I wanted by the time I was seated.  Opted for the prix fixe menu which started with one hush puppy, shrimp tempura wrapped in greens w/grilled summer squash, fish with curry sauce and greens, blue polenta w/tempura wild mushrooms and quinoa, guinua hen with tiny butternut squash cakes and almond cake with passion fruit curd and blue cheese – a fabulous meal and my last dinner in Texas.

Walked around the corner to Congress Avenue and to Continental Club for music.  Listened to one band and watched it dismantle and another come on which was even better.  A bit more rock than country but good nevertheless.

Check out of my airbnb in the morning and had a final muffin at Mozart’s, a walk around the lady bird lake and then stopped at Mozart’s for lemon tart and tea.  Returned the car at the airport and caught my flight to SFO.  Had an hour stopover where I picked up an egg salad sandwich and got to SNA about 7:30 p.m.  I look forward to returning to San Antonio one day soon!

Chile – March 25 – April 9, 2019

Just finished a wonderful 3 weeks in Columbia with Intrepid Travel and now it was time to be on my own.  After a delicious lunch at Cantina y Punto in Bogota, I took a taxi to the airport only to find the flight to Lima and on to Santiago had been so delayed that by the time we reached Lima, the connecting flight had already left…Rebooked for the morning flight and after a bus and then metro I arrived at my Airbnb in the Belles Artes district which was delightful.  I had a whole studio to myself!!!  First stop was a café for coffee and a brownie and then I wandered around and up to the Plaza des Armes.

Returned to my studio and realized there had been a time change of 2 hours so I had missed my reservation at Aqui esta coco!!!  Took the metro there anyway and there was a nice little table for me out on the patio.  Had a delicious ceviche with peppers and red onions and a crème brulee, both fine but nothing special.  The atmosphere was great so I was glad I had come.

In the morning I stopped for a croissant and coffee at Opera nearby and then walked to the central market where a lot of seafood restaurants are located.  It was too early to see much action but I got a feel for the place anyway.  Walked to Centro Gabriela Mistral, a striking building with a small art exhibition on the bottom floor which I enjoyed and then on to La Chascona, built in 1953 by Pablo Neruda for his secret love and then wife, Matide Urrutia.  The multi-level house is very ecletic in design and filled with interesting paintings, furniture, carved wooden sculptures, etc.  A must see!!!  There was a self-guided tour so you could enjoy the history of his collection.

Stopped at Mamboleta for brownie and ice cream and then walked to the top of Cerro Lucia where there is a little castle and a lovely view of the city.  Later that evening I walked over to the Bella Vista area to Peumayen, an ancestral restaurant with unique food and music of Chile.  I had the vegetarian selection and the courses came out in threes on a wooden board.  It was a fabulous experience!!  First came a board of different breads and starters, i.e. pine nut and honey and smoked cauliflower, etc., one of mains, i.e. lentil and quinoa croquettes with chimichurri and one of desserts, i.e. chocolate cake with rocoto marmalade.

In the morning I took the metro and then bus back to the airport where I had some coffee and a muffin and then flew to Puerta Montt.  Picked up a car at the airport and they gave me a GPS for free which I was delighted to have.  Found my way to the airbnb and the host came out to greet me.  He showed me the studio and then we went to lunch at his friend’s restaurant in town which was very nice.  Had some delicious pork, cucumber salad and chocolate cake.  I stayed on in town and wandered around, finally making my way up a very steep hill to Chile Picante where I had a delicious dinner, i.e. salmon ceviche/fish with vegetables and pesto/crepes with orange sauce, and a great view of the city.

There was only one other couple in the restaurant and when they heard me ask the waiter to call a taxi for me they offered to take me back to my airbnb!!!  Really nice.  I speak just enough Spanish to get by which really helped.

Drove to Puerta Vargas, a very cute little town nearby, for coffee and a muffin in the morning at Barista and then wandered along the water for a bit.  Drove to Frutillar and took a tour (unfortunately only in Spanish) of the famous theatre on the lake with fabulous acoustics and where many famous people have performed.  Wandered back to my car passing some very cute little houses along the way.  Drove up to Se Cocina and had a fabulous lunch even though I was the only person in the restaurant!!!  Had some cold shellfish from the area which I did not recognize, grilled salmon with roast Chilean potatoes and a lemon pie.  Beautiful view of the garden and very peaceful.  Drove up to the Volcano Ostorno hoping for a view but it was foggy all the way up and I didn’t see a thing…

Relaxed in my airbnb and made some tea to go with the brownie I had picked up at breakfast.  Very nice.

Made some coffee in the morning and heated up a muffin for breakfast, checked out and then drove to the ferry to Chiloe Island known for its wooden churches built by the Jesuit missionaries in the 17^th and 18^th centuries.  Visited the Centro de Visitantes Immaculada Conception in Ancud, which houses scale models of all 16 wooden churches and then wandered around the city down to the waterfront where I had cheesecake and coffee at a cute little café called Café Amaranthine. 

Drove on to Dalcahue, a town facing the inner sea of the island and visited the Church Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, the first of the many wooden churches I would visit.  Drove on into Castro, the capital of Chiloe island where I met my host and followed him up to the Cabana about 5 miles out of town where I had planned to spend three nights.  The road up was not paved and I found it very difficult to climb.  Later I drove into Castro and visited the Iglesia San Francisco de Castro, a lovely yellow church with a fantastic wooden interior and vaulted ceiling made using ship building techniques.  Wandered down San Martin to the palafitos, little houses and restaurants set on the water.  Had dinner nearby at Mercadito, grilled trout and salad. 

Had a terrible experience on returning to the Cabana as I couldn’t find the dirt path entrance.  I called my host who did not answer the phone and finally asked a couple to help me.  He spent almost an hour trying to find the place which lucky for me he did…

Heated up a roll for breakfast, made some coffee and had some fruit and headed out to San Juan and then to Tenaun to see the churches.  The one in San Juan was very old and a village lady let me inside.  Each one has special icons and is unique.  Drove to Isla Aucar, south of Quemchi, and walked the wooden bridge across the water to the park.  Stopped in Dalcahue for lemon pie and coffee and then took the ferry to Isla Quinchao.  Stopped first in Curaco de Velez, a sweet little town where you can take the walkway over the marshland.  On to Achao, another cute town with a very nice Iglesia Santa Maria de Loreto, Chiloe’s oldest.

Returned to my Cabana and then drove to Castro and had dinner at Cevicheria near the palafitos, i.e. seafood stew filled with mussels, salmon, clams, etc.  Very tasty. 

After breakfast in the morning and a drive down that very dangerous road out, I decided to stay at one of the palafito’s my last night as I did not want to miss this experience.  Found a lovely Palafito Hostel on the water and it was charming.  Returned to the Cabana and driving up the road my car almost flipped over – really the last straw.  Luckily the host helped me set the car straight which took some doing and I told him I was leaving.  He gave me a bit of a refund but at that point I didn’t really care.

After checking in to the palafito I drove south and stopped in Nercon to visit Iglesia Nuestra Senora de Gracia and was lucky again that someone let me inside.  There was a beautiful all-wood sculpture of St. Michael.  On to Chonchi, a really nice town on the water.  Visited the church and then walked down to the waterfront where I found a little café where I had a delicious piece of chocolate cake and coffee. 

Drove to Parque Nacional with some guidance from a very nice school bus driver and stopped in Rahue to pay the admission to walk the Muelle de las Armas shrouded in folklore.  This “dock of souls” was crafted by Marcelo Orellana Rivera, a Chilean wood sculptor.  It is quite a hike across some very windy but beautiful landscape where this “dock” seems to disappear into the bay… It took about 2 hours total but was well worth it.  Returned to my little palafito to shower and get warm.  Later I walked next door to Cazador for a fabulous dinner.  Sat by the window and enjoyed a glass of wine, hake fish with seafood sauce, organic greens and a slice of roasted pumpkin.  So relaxing after such a busy day…

Took a little walk along the water and then had breakfast at the communal table, i.e. homemade bread and jam, hard cooked eggs and coffee.  Drove to Cucao and took the ferry to Pagua and then drove on to Puerto Varas to spend a few hours before my flight to Punta Arenas.  Walked along the water and then stopped at Barista for a nice brownie and coffee before heading to the airport and returning my car. 

In Punta Arenas I picked up another rental car (no GPS this time) and drove to my airbnb using the map but it was late, dark and raining so I couldn’t really find it.  Stopped at a little café along the way and someone called my host and then let me follow them to the airbnb where my host awaited me.  I had a little studio of my own and my host was so nice.  She took me into town (so I didn’t have to drive and get lost) and we had some soup at Marmita, a very sweet little restaurant in town.   Afterwards she drove up the hill so I could get a nice view of the city and then around the city center so I could get a feel for the city as the airbnb was about a 10 minute drive away.  So very nice…

Drove into town in the morning and had a delicious muffin and coffee at Wake Up Café.  Walked up to the cemetery which was filled with very ornate headstones and gravesites and then spent some time in the Magallanes Regional Museum located in the Neoclassic mansion of the Braun-Menendez family with its interesting collection of furniture and objects that reflect Magallanes’ golden age.  Stopped at Wake Up for a quick chicken salad and then headed to Punta Natales about 3 hours away. 

My airbnb Cabana was a bit farther out of town then I had expected but it was a little house and very nice.  Walked into town and back and then drove up to Singular Hotel up on the hill for dinner.  It used to be a packing warehouse so is enormous and still has much of the equipment available to see.  The view from the restaurant is lovely.  Had an exquisite dinner, i.e. octopus with romesco sauce, rabbit loins with caramelized carrot puree and flourless chocolate cake.

Walked down to the little café I had stopped at on my way in for a delicious chocolate muffin and headed out to Torres del Paine National Park but headed out the long way!!!  After about 2 hours driving I stopped a big bus and asked where I was and he told me I was still about 2 hours away as I started off in the wrong direction.  He suggested I just relax and enjoy the beauty which I did and was actually quite happy to have seen all I did on that beautiful day as the weather only worsened after I arrived!!!  Luckily I had picked up a brownie at the café this morning and filled my water bottle so I was good to go!

I saw some beautiful lakes, llamas, mountains, waterfalls, etc. and finally arrived in Villa Serrano near the lake and Cabanas del Paine where I stayed for three nights.  The Cabanas are in a great location about 15 minutes from the entrance to the park and much cheaper than staying in the park.  Close to the lake and other nice hotels, it was perfect for me.  I walked over to Pampa Lodge nearby and booked a horse riding trip for the morning and later returned to Rio Serrano for salmon with tamale corn sauce.

Nice buffet breakfast overlooking the lake, i.e. toast, eggs, lots of fruit and great coffee.  Walked over to Pampa Lodge and although it was pouring rain, I took a two hour ride out into the woods and through the lagoon. 

Drove into the park and on to the most beautiful hotel called Explora, an awesome, very modern building, and an expensive all inclusive hotel.  I talked them into “letting me” stay for lunch and it was a wonderful, although expensive, experience.  I sat by the window overlooking the lake and had a mixed salad, grilled fish with carrot puree and chocolate fondue with strawberries for dessert plus a glass of wine and coffee.  Since it was rainy I returned to the Cabana for a hot shower.  Just had some pancakes filled with cheese and rhubarb later relaxing in the dining room.

After breakfast the next morning I drove to Lago Grey about 30 minutes away and found the Mirador trail down to the lake.  Walked to the end and enjoyed the beauty, i.e. a lot of little glaciers, ice and stillness.  The walk took about two hours.  Returned to the hotel for lunch overlooking the lake, i.e. pumpkin soup, glass of wine, beef cooked very slowly so it was very tender and served with potato puree and a chocolate dessert. 

Unfortunately it was still raining so returned to the Cabana to plan the rest of my trip.  Nice dessert buffet for dinner.

Beautiful day in the morning and unfortunately it was the day I had to leave.  Stopped at the Milodon Caves where remnants of several species of extinct animals were found and where the indigenous Selk’nam people lived.

Stopped in Puert Natalas at the café where I had had breakfast and had a very nice pumpkin soup and carrot cake before heading into Punta Arenas and back to the airbnb where I had stayed before.  Parked my car and took a nice walk along the water and back.  Drove to Yegua Loca for dinner.  It is a little hotel and very fun little café as well with great food.  I had grilled octopus with quinoa and a very nice chocolate dessert.

Took a peaceful walk along the water after a delicious muffin and coffee at Wake Up and then stopped there again for pumpkin soup and passion fruit tart.  Returned the car and flew to Santiago, arriving about 7 p.m.  Bus and then metro to the Bella Vista area where I was staying in an airbnb with multiple locks and combinations which just about did me in!!  I finally got inside and it was really nice.  Closed up everything and walked to the singular Hotel for dinner.  Had delicious grilled octopus with avocado cream, a glass of wine and a chocolate mousse dessert.  Walked back to the airbnb even though it was quite late as it seemed safe enough.

Had a brownie and coffee for breakfast at the porta café and then took the metro to Pajaros where I caught a bus to Valpariso about 1-1/2 hours away.  Took a local bus up to La Sebastiana, another of Pablo Neruda’s home and a lovely one at that.  Five stories filled with paintings, unique furniture, antique maps, etc.  Took another bus back into the center to see the famous colored houses and painted murals, stopping for coffee and pie at a little café where someone was playing the guitar and singing…Bus back to Santiago where I checked out of my airbnb and stopped by Bocanariz for a quick lunch of grilled octopus with crisp potatoes in a spicy sauce.  Metro to bus and bus to the airport and home!!!  Another excellent trip!!!