Sicily, Italy, September, 2014

Arrived in Palermo about 7:00 a.m. on the overnight ferry from Naples.  Walked to Liberta (www.bedandbreakfastliberta.it), my little b&b, which was only 10 minutes from the porto, left my luggage, picked up a map and set out to see Palermo.

First stop, a pastry shop!!!  Had a delicious little apple pastry and coffee and then walked down the main street to the Antonio Pasqualino Museum of Marionettes.  It was a wonderful museum filled with shadow puppets from India, small ones from Indonesia, puppets from Indian, Africa and Japan and even a little stage where you could watch a video of the famous Sicilian Pipi puppets. 

On down into the historical part of town where I visited some churches and the Vucciria market which actually has gotten quite small.  THE market to visit is actually the Ballaro Market filled with fruits and vegetables which I decided to visit in the morning.  Back to V. Emanuele street to the famous quattro canti, baroque buildings, with near-identical facades which contain fountains and statues of the four seasons.  Also walked by the enormously gorgeous fountain in piazza Pretoria designed in Florence in 1554 for a villa but acquired by Palermo 20 years later. 

Next stop the Duomo (cathedral), a massive structure but very beautiful inside.  I first visited the treasury with its rich vestments, chalices and the bejeweled cap-like crown of Constance of Aragon and then the crypt containing about 20 marble tombs with elaborate sculptures.  Took a break at a little café for a honey croissant and then on to the Capella Palalina in the Palazzo Reale.  Considered the apex of the Arabe-Norman collective genius it was built from 1130 to 1140 and adorned with Byzantine mosaics.  Reminded me of the Russian and Turkish churches with every part of the walls and ceiling covered with beautiful mosaics representing different saints, etc.  At one time it was the king’s chapel – really amazing. 

I thought about taking a tour of theTeatro Massimo but then decided I had seen enough for one day and returned to the hotel.  Checked into an adorable little room and then Carmen and her husband told me about some other things I should see and later sent to off to one of their favorite restaurants, Osteria Mercere.  It was close but a bit too modern for me.  I ordered a half portion of spaghetti with clams and mussels and grilled fish, both were delicious. 

In the morning I walked to the Ballero Market which took up about three streets and was filled with fresh fruit and vegetable stands.  Delicious breakfast on the terrace when I returned to the hotel, i.e. ricotta filled croissant, strong coffee and melon.  Carmen called my hotel in Taormina to get directions and off I went to pick up the rental car.  It took about 4 hours to get to the Castelmola exit and I drove up and up until I found Villa Almoezia.  The owner was delightful and helped me park my car, showed me where to walk down to the historical center and made a reservation at the restaurant nearby!!!

ALOT of stone steps down into the town and as I was just about to reach the main street I walked through the terrace of a restaurant and saw some guests eating what looked like delicious tiramisu.  Sooo, I sat down at a little table and ordered one for myself.  It was delicious, especially with a tiny cup of strong coffee after such a long drive.

Walked along the cobbled streets through little shops, old churches like St. Catherine’s, small piazzas to the Duomo outside of which music was being played by some fiddlers.  Wandered through the lovely villa communal gardens created by a Scottish lady who was “invited” to leave England after a well-publicized romance with the future King Edward VIII, son of Queen Victoria.  There is also a Greek ampitheatre to visit as well.  I walked back up to my hotel before it got too dark and sat outside and enjoyed the panorama – it was lovely.  A cat even came by and sat on my lap for a bit – felt like home.

So Glad I didn’t have to walk down all those stairs again in the dark to find a restaurant and instead just walked 5 minutes to where my host had suggested I dine.  I sat at outside on the terrace overlooking the town and ordered a half portion of pasta with eggplant, swordfish and pine nuts with a side dish of arugula to mix in.  It was delicious as everything seems to be here, especially with such a view.

Walked around Castelmola in the morning and had some Italian cakes for breakfast which were a bit dry and uninteresting for such a lovely place…It was raining a bit when I left but by the time I reached the Parco Archeologico della Napoli in Siracusa it was a lovely day.  Parked the car somewhere near the entrance and spent a couple hours wandering to the Teatro Greco with its seats hewn from rock, the paradise quarry where many of the stones were hauled from to erect the great monuments of Syracuse and the very interesting Cave Caravaggio dubbed “Ear of Dionysius” because of its unusual shape.  Nearly 200 feet long, the story goes that the despot Dionysius used it to force prisoners into the “ear” at night.  On to the roman amphitheatre where gladiators faced each other and slaves died fighting wild beasts…

Across the bridge and over to the Ortygia Island where I stayed.  Finding a parking place was a very big challenge but I did succeed!  Found Atrio, my very nice b&b and then set out to wander the island.  First stop was Viola for a jam pie slice and coffee and then to Piazza Duoma and piazza Archimede with its lovely baroque fountain festooned with dancing jets of water and sea nymphs.  Followed the “shore” and ended up at the teatro dei pupi for my 6:30 p.m. puppet show.  I had ordered a ticket in advance and was glad I did as there was quite a line of people trying to buy tickets.  It was a traditional story of a man on a quest and the marionettes were about 5 feet high.  Music was a bit strange but from my second row seat it was wonderful!!!  Afterwards I had a very tasty dinner at le vin de l’assassin bistrot, sitting at an outside table, i.e. salmon with pistachio crust, couscous with nuts and dried fruits and a few greens – excellent.

Walked around the island in the morning and then had a wonderful breakfast outside on the terrace, chocolate croissant, different Italian pastries and cookies, melon and grapes and, of course, the robust Italian coffee.  Headed to Arigento but first stopped in Noto, considered to be one of the most beautifully built cities in Europe.   I wandered down corso vittorio emanuele to piazza municipio housing the large duomo and the palazzio viddadorata with its extravagant balconies supported by sculptured buttresses of horses, cherubs, etc. and thoroughly enjoyed the beauty of the old city. 

Arrived in Agrigento about 4 p.m.  I had taken a couple cookies from breakfast and was glad I did as I didn’t have time to stop for lunch – it turned out to be a longer drive than I had anticipated!!!   I parked near the entrance and entered the Valle de tempi, one of the most outstanding examples of greater Greece art and architecture and a UNESCO heritage site.  The valley includes the remains of seven temples including the very well preserved Temple of Concordia with its tall columns, the Temple of Juno built in the 5^th century BC and the Temple of Heracles, the largest of the temples with several columns still remaining.

Once I had finished touring I called my hotel, Le Cinque Novelle, and the owner came out on his motorcycle to guide me into town and showed me where to park the car.  It was a lovely room and the hotel was perfectly located in the centro storico!!!  I walked about 10 minutes to La Posata di Federico II where I enjoyed Pasta alla norma famous in Sicily plus a plate of arugula to mix in.  The sauce was filled with pieces of eggplant and tossed with spaghetti draped over some roasted eggplant halves and sprinkled with Parmesan – really quite tasty.

In the morning a walked around the old town, up and down the ancient cobble-stone streets which lead to churches or old houses crumbly with neglect…Breakfast was the very best so far!!!  Set before were several different Italian pastries, filled with ricotto or nuts or chocolate plus some savory pastries as well PLUS delicious coffee and fruit.  I think the Italian pastries I have experienced on this trip are some of the best I have ever eaten anywhere in all my travels so far!!!!

Easy drive to Trapani as long as I paid attention making sure I was on the autostrada and not the 115.  Arrived at Porta della botteghelle, my hotel, about 1 p.m. using the great directions I was given in Arigento!!!  Nice little hotel in the old part of town.  The town sits on the sea and is charming.  I walked up to the piazza garibaldi and caught the bus to the funicular and took the funicular up to Erice, an ancient medieval city.  On the funicular I met a lady from Slovakia and we spent the day together.  We first stopped at a little café for coffee and pastries and then wandered up and down the old streets to the castles, old churches and up to the top of mount erice for a great panorama.  It was delightful!!!  Funicular down to the bus stop, bus stop to the piazza where we said good-bye. 

I wandered around the old city until it started to get dark and then had dinner at Salirossa, an ecletic café.  Started with a romesco “dip” with little pastries to dip in it.  Cooked pickled tuna with onion, vinegar and capers was my first course and it was served cold.  Second course was a half portion of pasta with zucchini pesto, clams, shrimp and eggplant.  I liked the pasta as the pesto was chunky and the clams still in the shell.  I wandered down the main street v. Emmanuelle, stopping for a chocolate gelato on my way back to the hotel.

In the morning I took a walk to the lighthouse and stopped by the vegetable and fish markets.  Delicious cream filled croissant and café dopplia in the breakfast room with fresh melon and grapes.  Took the 10:45 a.m. ferry to the largest of the egadi islands, favignana, off the coast of Sicily.  The waters are clear and blue and there are some old roman ruins, rugged cliffs, churches, etc. to see.  I rented a bike for the day and rode all around the island, stopping here and there to enjoy the sights.  Parked in the town for a bit to have a pastry and coffee and wander the streets and took the 6:30 p.m. ferry back to Trapani.  With just enough time to take a shower and refresh myself, I walked a few minutes down my street to Seriosa 47, where I had a delicious 7 course dinner.  It is an elegant and very friendly restaurant and everything I had was divine, even the glass of white wine.  The menu consisted of:  tempura fish and carrots, shrimp on a bed of mussels, clams and squid, fish on top of eggplant puree, pasta with eggplant sauce and shrimp, john dory on top of potatoes with capers and tomatoes, sea breen with a bacon and bread crust and cassata filled with ricotta cheese for dessert. 

In the morning I walked to the port and back to the fish market before enjoying my cream filled croissant for breakfast and then headed back to Palermo to return the car.  The owner of the b&b printed out a street map for me so it was very easy to find my way.  I dropped my luggage off at Liberta and then took the bus to Monreale to visit the famous chiostro del duomo di monreale, filled with shimmering mosaics illustrating scenes from the bible.  The town is small and cute and as the church wasn’t opened as yet I sat in a piazza and had a Sicilian eggplant pizza with a side of arugula.  The mosaics in the church have an eastern look despite the western style Christ reigning over his kingdom.  The ceiling is ornate and there are also two bronze door depicting biblical stories in relief.  So glad I came!

Took the bus back to town and then sat in the piazza near the hotel and had a gelato before picking up my bags from Liberta.   I caught the 8:10 p.m. ferry back to Naples, finding a secluded place to sleep under the chairs….

Arrived at 7:00 a.m. and I found my b&b, Casa di Bruno, which turned out to be very close to the port.  It was not in the best area but once inside it was really nice.  The owner was delightful and my room was even ready so I took a shower and was off by 8:00 a.m.  Stopped around the corner for a delicious still warm chocolate croissant and coffee and then bought my ticket on the hydrofoil to Capri which left at 9:10 a.m.  We arrived in 45 minutes at the marina grande which is the port area and nothing remarkable.  Took the funicular up the steep hill to Capri which reminded me of the towns of the amalfi coast, lots of chic shops, nice piazzas, etc.  I picked up a map and headed away from the crowds along via tragara to the arco naturale, gorgeous Paleolithic rock arch out in the sea, which is spectacular!!!  On along the via to faraglioni, towering three rock formations jutting out from the sea.  I walked the 20 minutes down the cobble stone stairs to the sea to get a really good view of the rocks.  After all that walking I stopped at La Capannina recommended to be where the “smart set” goes for lunch.  I had a delicious antipasto platter, relaxing at a very nice table open to the street. 

I took the bus up to Anacapri up the hill and walked the historic walk out on Viale Axel Munthe to the Villa San Michele following the sea.  Beautiful views from the villa.  Back to Capri where I sat in the piazza and had a chocolate gelato before taking the funicular back down to the port and catching the ferry back to Naples.  It was a beautiful day.  Since my flight was early in the morning I just stopped at a nearby café for a pastry and coffee and returned to the b&b to pack up and get ready for the flight home.  Taxi came on time and I just had enough time to pick up my last cream filled croissant before boarding my first leg to Frankfurt, then Houston and finally home…It really makes for a wonderful trip experience if you plan well and I was so glad I did!!!

Southern Italy, September, 2014

Easiest way to get to LAX is Shuttle2LAX!  They are always on time and you arrive at the airport without any stress!!!  Made a couple stops inflight to Naples and finally arrived at the airport about 12:30 p.m.  Took the bus to Piazza Garibaldi and then the metropolitana to Piazza Dante where my b&b, Palazzo Ruffo di Bagnara (www.palazzoruffodibagnara.it) was located.  Up on the top floor Carmen met me at the door and it was a delightful stay!!!  My room was large, airy and quiet and she was so informative on what to do, how to get there, etc. etc. etc. that I felt right at home.  PLUS, to my good fortune, Piazza Dante is right in the center of everything.  I picked up my first cream filled Italian pastry as a quick lunch and then bought a day metro ticket and took the funicular up to Castel Elmo.  The museum was closed but the view was spectacular!  Wandered around a bit, hoping to return another day, and then took another funicular down to the large Galleria Umberto, a shopping mall under construction but very old and impressive. 

Nearby is the Teatro Colon and the Castel Nuovo, housing municipal offices and built in the 13^th century by Charles I, King of Naples as a royal residence.  I walked down towards the sea passing through several beautiful piazzas, especially piazza del plebiscite with its impressive church.  I then walked up the main street, Via Toledo towards Piazza Dante and turned onto Via Tribunal, a narrow walking street in the old part of town.  As it was getting late I decided to head to Gobbetto restaurant which was recommended as being excellent.

There was a line of about 10 people when I arrived at about 8:30 p.m.  Everyone eats late in Italy, i.e. 9:30 p.m. so I waited for a table.  The night was pleasant and the location was good so I didn’t mind the wait.  Once inside, it was charming and my antipasto platters were excellent.  One contained grilled zucchini, eggplant, roasted peppers and mushrooms and another contained fried things, i.e. cheese, sardines, polenta, squash blossoms on a bed of arugula.  A delicious and not expensive first meal in Italy!

In the morning Carmen set out some croissants and fresh fruit and I enjoyed breakfast at a little table overlooking the piazza.  Coffee in Italy is strong and delicious and the pastries I tried along the way were some of the best I’ve ever had.  Afterwards I went to the Catacombs a bit out of town.  As I couldn’t find a bus to take me there I used the little Italy I had studied to ask a young motorcyclist if I could pay him to take me there.  He was so surprised that someone my age would actually ride with him that he didn’t charge me!!!

The Catacombs of San Ggennaro date back from the 2^nd century.  The many tunnels held Christian burial niches and some of the old frescos still remain.  It is one of the largest and very impressive.  Afterwards I took the train to Pompeii where I spent about 5 hours wandering through the old amphitheatre, forum, baths, old shops, villas, etc.  Stopped for dinner at the famous Gino Sorbillo for pizza and a plate of arugula for dinner.  Since there were about 30 people waiting when I arrived at 8 p.m. I figured this must be “the place” to try Napolitan pizza.   The pizza was delicious with a chewy crust, cheese and a few mushrooms – a bit soft in the center but still yummy.  Easy walking distance back to the hotel…

Warm croissant and fruit for breakfast and then took the metro to the train station where I picked up my rental car.  With some “ado” I finally made it to Aberobello.  I stopped near the town to ask directions and was “lead” to La Truffesa Holiday where I stayed in an adorable little trullo, which is like a hobbit house.  The owner was very nice and drove me into town later that afternoon where I wandered around these many trulli where people still live.   Some are made into shops and restaurants, sometimes combined two together.    In one of these little trullo, in the restauarant L’arturo, I had a delicious pasta from the Puglia area, i.e. a type of ham, onions and some shell pasta on top of fava bean puree.  I ordered a side of arugula and piled that on top – really good.  Piero picked me up at 10:00 p.m. and drove me back to my “trullo”.

In the morning after a nice walk around some of the streets filled with more of these little trulli, Piero brought breakfast to my door.  It was sooo delicious.  Warm chocolate croissant, delicious strong Italian coffee and lots of melon, plums and grapes.  Went back into town to visit the museum which explained how the trulli are constructed and who lives in them now.  Originally they were just one room with a table set in the middle for meals.  One platter and one spoon were used by all.  Today 2 – 3 are combined to make a more pleasant environment.    On to Matera where I wanted to visit the famous caves.

I stopped near the town to ask directions and a very nice man lead me first to the parking garage (as the old city is a pedestrian city) where I parked my car and then he carried my bags up and down cobblestone stairs until we reached Antico Convicino where I was staying.  I only hoped I could find my car again!!!  My “hotel” was in a cave and they upgraded me to a suite so I actually had two levels – it was awesome. 

Map in hand, I set out to see this well known historical center called “Sassi”.  Sassi are houses dug into the calcareous rock.  I stopped at the museum where I watched a video about how people lived in these caves until the late 1980’s without heat, water or sanitation until their plight was made known and the caves were condemned and it became an UNESCO heritage site.  I visited old churches with ancient frescos and wandered the streets soaking in the history, stopping at a little pastry shop for a prosciutto and cheese croissant and a hazelnut gelato to sustain me until dinner.

Walked towards the cathedral which is under construction and down along the wall surrounding the city to Baccanti Ristorante set in a cave!  I had a half portion of delicious shell pasta with wild chicory, sun-dried tomatoes and chickpea puree sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese and a side of arugula.  The atmosphere was peaceful and I didn’t feel pressured to order a lot of food.  Leisurely walked back to my “hotel” and enjoyed my space!

Took a walk around the old wall in the morning and then had breakfast in the cave-like dinning room, i.e. delicious pastries, fruit and coffee.  Headed to the amalfi coast.  I had thought about parking the car in amalfi and just taking the bus to ravello and positano but decided it would probably just take too long so I drove the hair pin turns, narrow roads with their amazing vistas.  I stopped first in Ravello and then drove through Amalfi on to Positano.  Ravello is a lovely city up on a hill with shops, gardens, piazzas, etc. Positano is also a beautiful city filled with cobblestone streets which lead right down to the sea.  However, it’s the drive that is the most spectacular and if you have time, the walks between some of the little villages are supposed to be awesome as well. 

After Positano I drove back to Maiori where I was staying the night as it was closer to Naples where I needed to return the car in the morning.  Maiori is a less populated city but set on the sea so is a nice place to stay.  Also the Michelin star restaurant Capo d’Orso is a short taxi ride away.  I had made a reservation and although I got there late it was no problem.  Very few people were there on a Sunday night but, nevertheless, my 5 course meal was excellent.  It started with a little plate of appetizers, i.e. little fried coquettes, lightly seared tuna, crock of ricotta and little tomatoes with a tiny spoon to eat it with.  Next came spaghetti with clams, zucchini flowers and zucchini dice, fish topped with roasted peppers, green beans and crisp potato cubes, peach meringue with peach gelato and chocolate cookie like dessert filled with lime cream.  Sooo Delicious.

In the morning I took a walk along the sea and had a croissant and coffee for breakfast before heading back to Naples and returning the car.  I left my luggage with Carmen at the Palazzo Ruffo di Bagnara where I had stayed before and walked to the Archelogical Museum to see the mosaics from Pompeii and some of the glass and metal objects Also found at the site.  Relaxed at Café Gambrini with a delicious cherry tart and café doppia and then walked down to the Castel d’ovo located on a peninsula.  It is the oldest standing fortification in Naples; however, its importance began to decline when Charles I of Anjou built the Castel Nuovo.  It was cavernous and fun to wander around the ramparts.

Picked up my bags from the hotel and took the metro down to the port where I caught the overnight ferry to Palermo, Sicily.  I booked a “seat” thinking it would be like the recliner I took on the train from Paris to Barcelona but it didn’t recline; however, there were hardly any people in the room so most of us just stretched out on the floor.  I had picked up a Panini for dinner and asked the guy at the bar to “per piacere” put it in his Panini press to heat up for me which he did and it was a fine little dinner.

Arrived in Palermo about 7:00 a.m. and found my hotel very easily as it was only 10 minute walk from the ferry.  I pressed the button and was happy someone answered as it was so early in the morning!!  Took the elevator 4 flights up and was greeted at the door by Carmen still in her pajamas!!  She was very sweet, gave me a map and off I went to explore the town.