India – Calcutta to Delhi – February, 2016

My second G Adventure trip started in Calcutta so I took a taxi from Delhi to the airport only to find that the flight had been delayed two hours!!!  Air India gave us a coupon for a complimentary lunch at a very nice restaurant so while waiting for my flight I enjoyed dal, paneer, chicken curry and Indian bread.  Took a prepaid taxi to “Central” where I was staying but the driver, and later myself(!!!), had a very hard time finding it.  Luckily J who runs the “hotel” was always available by phone so I eventually arrived.

Nice large room on the 7^th floor, quiet with AC and hot water.  Even though it was almost 10 p.m. I was a bit hungry and wanted to stretch my legs so J suggested I walk around the corner to the Forum as it was safe to walk alone at night.  Found the Forum and had a nice Bengali meal, i.e. coconut chickpea dal, luchi (puffed bread) and little potatoes with spicy sauce at Oh! Calcutta.

In the morning I took a walk and had breakfast at Piccadilly Circus bakery nearby, i.e. delicious coffee and a brownie.  Took a taxi to the Marble Palace but it was closed for a private tour until later so I walked to the Howrah suspension bridge which is 705 m long and was built during WWII.  Also visited the colorful Mlik Ghat flower market nearby.  Walked back to the Marble Palace but it was still closed so I gave up on seeing it and instead visited the Kaliglat Temple, an ancient Kali temple, rebuilt in 1809 and Calcutta’s holiest spot for Hindus and possibly the source of its name.  It is a lovely temple with floral and peacock motif tiles that look more Victorian than Indian.  During festivals goats are sacrificed there…After much searching I found Bhojohari Manna mentioned in Lonely Planet as the top Bengal restaurant in Calcutta.  I certainly couldn’t miss that!  There was a long line but I finally got seated in this very cute restaurant with delicious food.  Had chickpea dal, this time it had fresh coconut slivers in it, Luchi and a stuffed potato dish served with a spicy mint sauce – realllyy tasty.  Walked around a bit but the city is so confusing I couldn’t find my way so just took the metro back to Central, calling J along the way to get directions!!!

Next day was Valentine’s Day so was lucky to get a reservation at Peshawri in the ITC Sonor.  I had a reservation for the night before but arrived too late so thanks to J was able to reserve for the following night.  Enjoyed a prix fixe dinner similar to Bukhara in Delhi, i.e. stuffed potatoes, tandoori chicken thighs (very tender and delicious), rolled lamb, garlic naan, chicken with tikka masala and peppers, dal and Indian ice cream.  The food was really so much better than in Delhi.

Walked around the gardens of the Victoria Monument in the morning which were lovely and very well kept.   They cover an area of 64 acres and everything seemed to be in bloom.  Visited St. John’s church built in 1787.  Quite British looking inside and out ringed by columns and housing rattan chairs inside.  Walked along the Ganges to Millenium Park which was rather uneventful.  Lunch at Zaranji near the Indian Museum was delicious, i.e. kofta navar (dumplings with a really nice sauce), dal and tandoori roti plus some candied mango chutney which went well with everything.  Wanted to visit the Ashutosh Museum of Indian Art but couldn’t find it so just gave up.  Took a taxi to Hotel Lytton where our G Adventure would start with a meeting at 6 p.m. 

Am delighted to have Dushyant again as my guide and it was fun to see him again!  Walked to the new market and had a kati roll, Bengal’s trademark fast food.  It’s a paratha roti filled with sliced onions, chili and a stuffing, i.e. mine was cheese and potato.

In the morning had delicious coffee and chocolate brownie at Flury’s, a very cute little coffee shop nearby.  Walked over to the Oberoi where many years ago my ex husband and I had dined!!!

We visited Mother Teresa’s Motherhouse where she lived most of her life and saw the little room where she slept from 1953 – 1997.  She won the Nobel prize for peace in the 1970’s and dedicated her life to helping the poor, especially the lepers.

Visited the Victoria memorial and went inside to see the paintings, etc.  It was designed to commemorate Queen Victoria’s 1901 diamond jubilee but the construction wasn’t completed until 1921, i.e. almost 20 years after her death.  In front there is a bronze statue of her on her throne.  Took a ferry ride down the Ganges to the Hawrah Bridge and then had lunch on Sudder Street at a little Bengal café, i.e. luchi, vegetable and potato dishes – all very nice.  Had some time to wander around a bit in the new market before catching the overnight train to Kalimpong.

Arrived at 6:30 a.m. at the train station and still needed to take

a 3 hour bus ride to get to Kalimpong.  Stopped for parantha stuffed with potatoes and coffee for breakfast.  Checked into our hotel and then visited the Cactus gardens and a nearby church.  Had vegetarian noodles for lunch at Gompu’s restaurant and then drove to the Durpin Gompa monastery consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 1976.  It is perched atop a hill and very beautiful inside.  Listened to the monks “praying”, i.e. reciting words, blowing horns and clinging cymbals.  Dinner at a little restaurant across from the hotel was vegetable curry, naan and roti bread.  Food was really good.

In the morning we headed to Sikkim, a state in East India in the Himalyan foot hills bordering Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan.  It requires a permit to enter but is easy to obtain.  While our guide got our permits we had potato stuffed paranthas and coffee for breakfast.  Drove to Gangtok, the capital, and visited Rumtek Gompa considered one of Tibetan Buddhism’s most venerable institutions and currently the home-in-exile of Buddhism’s Kagyu (black hat) sect.  Meant to replace the Tsurphu monastery in Tibet, the main monastery building was constructed between 1961 and 1966.  The giant throne within awaits the crowning of the (disputed) 17^th karmapa, who currently resides in Dharamasala.  Shared a Nepalese thali with one of the traverlers, i.e. dal, rice, vegetables, cracker bread, curd and beans and then checked into our hotel.  Very cold up in the mountains.

As we are a bit far from town had dinner at our hotel (Maplewood), i.e. spicy vegetables, cumin potato dish and naan bread.   Indian breakfast at the hotel was delicious, i.e. fried eggs, dry rice dish, potato parantha and hot tea.  Very foggy day so couldn’t see much from the Ganesh Tok viewpoint.  Visited Hanuman Tok and the Enchey Gompa containing beautiful murals of tantric deities.  The monastery founder was apparently famous for his levitational skills and was a flying monk some have said!!!  Stopped at the Himalyan Zoological Park to see some unique animals, i.e. red pandas, snow leopards and clouded leopards in a forest like atmosphere.  Lots of hiking up and down hills to get to the animals which was lovely. 

Stopped for some Tibetan momas, i.e. stuffed dumplings and then on to the lingdum gompa, the most picturesque of Gangtok’s monasteries, flower gardens and the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology housed in a traditional Tibetan-style mansion with a wonderful collection of artifacts related to Vajrayana Buddhism and Tibetan culture, i.e. Tantric ritual objects, thopa (bowl made from a human skull), thangkas (Tibetan cloth paintings), etc.

Took a gondola over the city and into the center of town.  Had some free time to wander around before meeting for dinner at A Taste of Tibet for some Tibetan vegetarian noodles and masala papadam.

In the morning we drove to Darjeeling, stopping for vegetable noodles on the way.  Visited the Tibetan Refugee center which houses 600 aged, orphans, etc. and is also a clinic, gompa and craft workshop.  Had mutton, spinach paneer and naan at Glenary’s for dinner.

Sunrise at Tiger Hill and then breakfast at a little café.  Visited the Happy Valley Tea Estate which began in 1854.  The estate was not functioning this time of year but we had a tour nevertheless and tried some of their tea which is organic and quite nice.

Visited the Mahakal Temple situated on top of a hill, walking through beautiful prayer flags on the way up.  Afterwards we visited the Japanese Peace Pagoda, a gleaming white building and one of the more than 70 pagodas built around the world by the Japanese Buddhist organization.  In the pagoda were murals carved out of rock depicting scenes in Buddha’s life. 

Had some free time so stopped at the Himalayan coffee shop for chocolate cashew cake and delicious coffee before wandering around town.  Met at 3 p.m. to go to the train station where we took the toy train which made its first journey along its two foot wide tracks in September 1881.  Stopped first in Ghum where we visited the railway museum and then in Kurseong and back to Darjeeling.  Unlike the Shimla train, this one ran within feet of local storefronts. 

Had dinner at Shangri-law restaurant, i.e. stuffed potatoes w/sauce, fish curry, dal and butter naan. 

Nice uphill walk to the Hindu temple we visited yesterday and took a leisurely walk around and back down to have coffee and walnut brownie for breakfast at the Himalayan Café.  Wandered around the city until 4 p.m. when we took taxis to the train station.  Unfortunately!!! There was a strike and people were sitting on the tracks so we had to wait in the train station for 13 hours (!!!) until the train finally arrived at 5:00 a.m..  A few of us played cards for several hours which helped the time go by.  I had picked up some cookies at Himalyan Café so had those for dinner.  Finally arrived at Mugal Sarai at 6:30 p.m. and then had to take a bus to Varanasi.  Most of us slept for several hours on the train and they did serve some nice vegetable curry, rice and dal for lunch.  Beautiful scenery along the way – a part of India I hadn’t seen before.  Had a nice dinner at our hotel in Varanasi, i.e. spinach dumplings, some cashew curry, cornmeal misti roti and regular naan.

Up early and headed down the Ganges on a boat to watch the sunrise.  Many people were already bathing and taking their holy dips.  Also saw some bodies on the stairs wrapped up and waiting to be cremated.  Lit some candles and sent them out with good wishes on lily pads into the Ganges….

I stayed in town while everyone else returned to the hotel and spent a couple hours immersing myself in Varanasi, i.e. watching people get their heads shaved, bathing in the Ganges, etc.  Tuk Tuk back to the hotel for vegetable jalfrezi and garlic naan and then went to a carpet “mansion” with our guide and a traveler looking to buy.  Interesting to see the beauty of the carpets but they were even too expensive for him.

Later in the evening we took a boat across the Ganges and Dushyant and one of our lady travelers took a “holy dip”.  Ferry back to the other side and a fun walk through the narrow streets and alleys ending at the blue lassi where we all had fruit lassis with fresh shredded fruit on top sitting on the terrace.  Mine was papaya and pineapple and delicious!  Took our boat out in front of the Dashshwamedh ghat decorated with  Hindu statues and watched the evening ceremony of lights, singing, etc.  Saw 13 piles of bodies burning as we floated down the river…

Stopped at a Nepalese home for a “cooking class” which was not really a cooking class.  The daughter made some momos (stuffed dumplings) and we all stuffed a couple to learn the technique.  The dad made some vegetable soup with noodles and we had those for dinner.  A really nice day…

Early morning train to Lucknow.  Checked into the hotel, had a quick lunch of dal and naan and took tuk tuks to the Residency, a large collection of gardens and ruins built in 1800 and served as the residence for the British resident guard who was a representative in the court of the Nawan.  In 1857 it witnessed the siege of lucknow, a prolonged battle lasting 147 days.  Dinner at a Moghul restaurant where we shared some mutton kebabs, dumplings, soft thin roti and some vegetable biryani which was quite nice.

In the morning after breakfast went to Bara Imambara, constructed in 1785, a year of a devastating famine, to provide employment for people in the region for almost a decade.   The entrance is accessed through two enormous gateways leading into a beautiful courtyard.  On one side is the beautiful Badshahi mosque and on the other is a large bowli (stepwell with running water).  The main imambara consists of a large vaulted center chamber containing the tomb of Asaf-ud-daula.  Walked up to the top of the central hall and into the three dimensional labyrinth, a network of narrow passageways that wind up to the upper floors.  Very impressive.

Had lunch at a little café with marginal Indian food which was rather disappointing as that was my last meal in India…Shared stuffed potatoes, butter chicken, misti roti and naan.  Caught the late afternoon train to Delhi and had a samosa for dinner.  Arrived about 10:30 p.m. and took a quick shower at the hotel before taking a taxi to the airport.  My flight left on time at 3:30 a.m.  What a great trip – can’t believe it’s already over…

India – February, 2016 – Delhi to Delhi

Off to India, one of my favorite countries in the world!!!  Left out of orange county which was very convenient and arrived at 2:00 a.m. the next morning in Delhi!!!  Am staying again at the delightful Shanti Home and had a car pick me up as it was sooo late.  Took a hot shower and slept until 9:00 a.m.  Delicious breakfast on the terrace (one of the reasons I love Shanti Home) was all made to order:  hard cooked eggs, crepes filled with sugar and an Indian dish.  Shanti Home is a bit far from the center but there is a metro a 10 minute walk away.  A hotel worker walked me to the metro, got me organized and off I went to the Craft Museum.

I had been to the Craft Museum a few years ago but didn’t really have enough time to see it well.  So, I spent a nice 2 hours enjoying the wall hangings, embroidery, saris, etc.  Had a delicious lunch, i.e. corn pancakes, pureed mustard greens, jaggerty at the museum’s little café and then, refreshed, headed to the Kahn Market.  Found a cute little blouse at the Anokhi shop and wandered around a bit.  Stopped for a quick walk around Connaught square before heading back to the hotel for a rest.

Have been invited to an Indian wedding the following night and this afternoon the bride’s party was having their hands painted in henna.  I chatted a bit with everyone and then they painted one of my hands as well – so beautiful.  Took a taxi to Indian Accents Restaurant and had a fabulous meal, i.e. blue cheese mini naan, burrata with tomato chutney, walnuts and crispy crackers, shredded spicy duck “cone”, shrimp wrapped in bacon w/wasabi cream, sweet and spicy pork ribs, soft shell crab pieces deep fried in coconut flour with tomato pickle sauce, sorbet on a stick, pepper fish on greens with spicy sauce, dal, yogurt/avocado sauce, bacon stuffed naan and carrot crumble and chocolate fudge layered brownie for dessert followed by tiny cardamom cookies and mango candies. 

I returned to the hotel by taxi and the festivities for the next day’s wedding were still going on.  Had a look at the buffet, listened to the band and watched the dancing before turning in…

After another delicious breakfast on the terrace, I took the metro to the Qutb Minar Complex where the first monuments here were erected by the sultans of Mehrauli and subsequent rulers expanded on their work. Hiring the finest craftsmen and artisans to create an explanation mark in stone to record the triumph of muslim rule.  Dominated by the spectacular soaring afghan-style victory tower and minaret, Qutb is studded with ruins and tombs which I enjoyed wandering through.  Tuk tuk to hauz khas village for lunch at Naivedyam, i.e. masala dosa, crisp lentil pancake filled with masala potatoes and vegetables served with spicy green and red sauces, yogurt sauce and dal – sooooo tasty.  Wandered through the shops and back into the complex of old mosques along the water until I got tired. 

Met another couple from the hotel also going to the wedding at 8:00 p.m. and we finally arrived at an enormous hall about 10:00 p.m. as the driver couldn’t find his way.  No problem as the groom had not even arrived yet.  1,000 people dressed in beautiful saris filled the hall which was decorated everywhere with flowers.  Live music and later videos of the couple were playing on an enormous band stand.  Appetizers were passed and also about 20 “stations” were set up serving incredibly delicious vegetarian appetizers, the likes of which I had never seen, let alone tasted. 

Stopped by the fruit table to clear our palates and finally the groom appeared wearing a beautiful turban and, after much money changing to allow him entrance into the hall, he was seated on the stage awaiting his bride.

We went to the other side of the hall where there were about 50 stations serving Indian food from many regions as well as European dishes.  We chose a selection and sat down to enjoy the feast.  The bridge appeared so we watched as she arrived in a chariot filled with flowers.  Afterwards we picked a selection of desserts from the dessert table, some tea from the drinks station and enjoyed everything.  About 1:00 a.m. things were winding down and we were tired so we called our taxi and returned to the hotel.  The whole experience was absolutely amazing!!!

Late breakfast and then took the metro to Akshardham temple, an ostentatious salmon-colored sandstone structure with 20,000 deities

carved into it.  Walked along the water and around the temple, all carved with beautiful hindu images.  Lunch at Bukhara, a tandoori restaurant, i.e. tandoori cauliflower, stuffed potatoes, garlic naan, dal and rice pudding before returning to Shanti Home.  Taxi to Metro Heights where I was to start my trip with G Adventures. 

Group meeting at 6 p.m.  Our local guide Dushysat turned out to be an outstanding guide and I was fortunate to have him on both my trips.  Went to a cafeteria type restaurant for dinner which was a bit disappointing but there are many meals to come!!

Visited the G Adventures-supported New Delhi Streetkids Project which has helped many orphans who used to live on the streets but are now taken care of.  Lunch at Aroma, i.e. tandoori salad and naan bread which was yummy before boarding the train to Amritsar.  Arrived very late so showered and went to bed.  Took a walk after breakfast and then visited Jallianwala Bagh, where the British Indian Army opened fire on a crowd of nonviolent protestors on 13 April 1919, killing well over 1,000 people…

Visited the famous  Amritsar golden temple, floating at the end of a long causeway.  It is a blend of hindu and Islamic architectural styles with an elegant marble level and a shimmering second level, encased in engraved gold panels, topped by a dome gilded with 750 kg of gold.  Visited the enormous kitchens where food for 60,000 people is prepared every day, i.e. dal, vegetables, naan, rice and rice pudding.  We all “helped” roll out some bread and had lunch (which was delicious!) on tin plates. 

Later that evening we drove to the wagah border (Indian/Pakistan border) to watch the parade by the soldiers from both sides and the lowering of the two nations’ flags.  There were soo many people it was really hard to see anything.  Stopped at the Crystal Restaurant for dinner, i.e. kofta with cashew sauce and naan bread on the way back to the hotel.  A few of us wandered around the temple at night which was quite lovely.

In the morning walked to the temple to see the sun rise.  Walked around the complex but there was an enormous line of people so didn’t go inside.  Packed up and had breakfast at a nearby coffee shop.  I ordered a delicious piece of chocolate cake with rich icing.  Don’t remember desserts being this good in India the last time I was here. 

Bus to Dharamasala, stopping for a potato/cauliflower dish and chickpea naan along the way.  Very cold here so requested a few extra blankets.  Walked to a Tibetan restaurant nearby for momas, vegetable stuffed dumplings, which took a LONG time to prepare but were delicious.  Wore all my clothes to bed!!!

Took a nice leisurely walk into town before breakfast and then a stroll around McLeod Banj, the famous seat of the Tibetan government in exile and current home of the Dalai Lama, to the waterfall and on to the Shiva temple for a nice view of the Himalayans.  Drove to the Norbulingka Institute of Tibetan culture but since it was a Tibetan holiday it was closed.  Also closed was the Kangra Art Museum in the Kotwali bazaar as well as the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts where generally a folk opera is performed…

Visited the Brajeshwari devi temple, a sacred shrine known for its great wealth.  On to the Church of St. John in the Wilderness with its lovely stained glass windows and finally to the Tsuglagkhang complex comprising the official residence of the Dalai Lama.  Sacred to Avalokitesvara, the Tibetan deity of compassion, it enshrines a 3 meter high gilded statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha.  Also visited the Kalachakra temple, a beautiful and colorful Buddhist temple near the market square.  Had some free time to wander around the bazaar and planned to meet at the Tibetan Kitchen; however, it was closed because of the holiday.  Ended up at another nearby restaurant and shared some fried vegetable momas, naan bread and some Tibetan noodles with vegetables with another couple.  Although it was dark, the walk back to the hotel was lovely.

A nice breakfast of scrambled eggs on toast and then our bus headed to Shimla, stopping at the Norbulingka institute which was open!!   Built in the traditional Tibetan architectural style with temples, etc., it housed an interesting “doll” museum with diaramas depicting Tibetan history and life.  We ran into a lot of traffic so the trip to Shimla took all day.  We did stop for a potato/cauliflower dish with naan bread which had to do for dinner as we arrived in Shimla at 11:00 p.m.  Took a hot shower and went to bed.

In the morning it was so cold I didn’t even bother changing clothes.  Took a walk up into town and found it delightful!  Looked for a place for breakfast but didn’t find anything until I was heading back to the hotel and spotted a really nice hotel off to my right.  Interestingly, many of our travelers were already there enjoying breakfast together so I joined them and had a delicious meal, i.e. hot “real” coffee, scrambled eggs on toast and fruit.  Met in the lobby of our hotel at 9:00 a.m. and walked up to the Jakhoo Temple, dedicated to the hindu monkey god Hanuman.  Lots of rhesusmacagues monkeys were loitering about and one even stole someone’s glasses off her face!!!  Luckily, with a little persuasion, they were returned.  There is also an impressive giant 108 foot high idol of hanuman which towers over the town. 

Stopped for Dosas at the Indian Coffee House and then a few of us took a taxi to Viceregal Lodge, built as an official residence in 1888 for the British Viceroys and eventually used as a summer residence.  Walked down to Christ Church built between 1844 and 1857 which contains some lovely stained glass windows and finally down to the Gaiety Theatre, modeled after the Garrick in London with its Burmese teak stage, etc.  Productions are still performed there.

Had dinner at the hotel where we had had breakfast and it was delicious.  I had kofta with spinach and onion stuffed roti.  Also shared some potato stuffed with cheese and vegetables which someone else had ordered – such great food.

Nice walk around town and delicious breakfast again at same hotel as yesterday.  Taxis to the train station and caught the Unesco World Heritage Shimla toy train to Kalka.  The line crosses more than 800 bridges and travels through over 100 tunnels.  Along the way are beautiful views of hills and villages.  Trip took about 6 hours but they really passed quickly.  Got a chance to talk with some of my fellow travelers who are always very interesting.

Later that afternoon we took a train to Delhi which was a nice luxurious train serving dinner, i.e. samosa, soup, curry, dal, rice and Indian bread and even ice cream!!!  Arrived in Delhi about 11 p.m.  In the morning after a nice walk and breakfast I flew to Calcutta to start the second part of my India experience.  Time sure does fly when you are having fun!!!

India, March/April, 2012

Since my flight to Delhi left at 7 a.m., the www.shuttle2losangeles for $20 was a good deal for me!!!  I booked online and was picked up at home and delivered with time to spare at LAX.  I arrived late in Delhi and stayed at Megha Homestay (www.meghahomestay.com)  for a couple nights which was very reasonable.  The following day, March 8, was Holi or festival of colors, a religious spring festival celebrated by the throwing of paint!!!  All museums and public transportation were closed so I visited the Jama Masjid mosque commissioned by Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal, in 1650 AD. It is the largest and best known mosque in India.   In the afternoon I visited Humanyun’s Tomb commissioned by his widow in 1565.  It was inspired by Persian architecture and placed in the center of the lovely, 30-acre Paradise Garden.  I walked over to a mosque nearby to watch some of the holi festivites, i.e. music, offerings, etc. but fortunately, no one threw paint my way!!!

Afterwards, I walked to Purana Qila, a massive fort founded in 1533.  Inside is the very well preserved Qila Kuhna Masjid with its unique horseshoe-shaped arches.  It was enjoyable to just wander around what remains of the old citadel.   Dinner at Veda restaurant with its more modern take on Indian food.

In the morning, I flew up to Leh in northern India.  Often called “little Tibet” because of its similarities to neighboring Tibet, Leh sits at 11,562 feet which takes some getting used to.  I had no problem with the high altitude so was able to set off for town after checking into the beautiful Silver Cloud Guesthouse highly recommended by Trip Advisor and a wonderful place to stay.  It was -5 degrees C and there was snow on the ground so, after putting on everything I brought along and borrowing a parka from the owner, I walked into town.  First I visited the mosque and then had delicious vegetable momas at Friends of Tibet restaurant.  Later in the afternoon I visited the Sankar Gompa inside of which is an impressive figure of Avalokitesvara with 1,000 arms and 1,000 heads.  Inside the temple is a special room reserved for the Dali Lama stays when he visits Leh.   In the morning breakfast was delivered to my room as it was too cold to venture downstairs, i.e. local flatbread, scrambled eggs, homemade jam, local white cheese and hot tea.  I walked through the snow up to Leh Palace passing stupas and prayer flags along the way – it was lovely.  Took a bus to Thikse Gompa which resembles the Portola Palace in Lhasa, Tibet.  It is located at 11,800 feet and is a 12-storey complex of buildings housing a 49 feet statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha.  Stopped by Shey monastery, built in 1655 and wandered around the ruins before returning to town.  Garlic spice chow mein lunch at WOK Tibetan Kitchen.

The next day a couple of us shared a taxi to Likir Monastery which houses 120 buddhist monks and a school and is quite grand.  Sitting on the roof is a 23 foot high gilded gold statue of Maitreya.  Stopped for a vegetable chow mein lunch on the way to Lamayuru monastery, one of the largest and oldest in Ladakh.  We wandered up around the hills, through the prayers flags, prayer wheels and stupas before returning to town.  In the morning after a leisurely walk with lovely views of the snow capped Himalayas I flew back to New Delhi.

Before Our Intrepid group met in the evening a few of us visited the Quib Minar, a brick and stone minaret, which stand 237.8 feet tall and is an important example of Indo-Islamic architecture.  There are five women in our group along with our Indian guide, Mahe. After the meeting we had dinner at a nearby restaurant and it was quite good – naan bread, palak paneer, cauliflower and potato curry.  In the morning Mahe took us out for our first Indian breakfast of dosa (crisp thin pancake) filled with potato masala – so yummy.  Afterwards we toured the spice market and an enormous Sikh temple.  We watched the service for a bit and then visited the “kitchen” where vats of lentils and vegetable curry were being prepared.  We all tried our hand at making chapati bread and then sat down on wooden benches to sample the fare.  Lentils, vegetarian curry, chapati and chutney were spooned onto our individual aluminum trays– soooo delicious.  Tuk Tuks to the Lotus Temple designed by architect Fariburz Sahba in 1986.  It has 27 white marble petals and is lovely.  We all went inside to hear a little program before heading to the India Gate, a stone memorial which pays tribute to the Indian army soldiers who died in WWI.  Another delicious dinner of vegetable curry with peppers, onions, etc., chicken with masala sauce, rice, potato korma, stuffed naan and paneer.  I do love this food!!!

In the morning we took the local train to Mandawa, stopping at the cremation “temples” where businessmen used to be cremated, before arriving at our hotel which was once a haveli (private mansion).  There was some wonderful dancing by men in turbans with bells tied on their ankles in the courtyard before dinner upstairs overlooking the city.  The following morning after Indian French toast stuffed with potatoes and onions we visited some traditional havelis ornately decorated and built as symbols of success.  We had a nice simple lunch of spicy potato stuffed peppers and naan bread at Haveli Monica and then a wander around town.  Dinner nearby where we shared some vegetarian korma, chickpea and potatoes and a vegetable/fruit dish which was unusual but good.

After parantha stuffed with potatoes for breakfast we took a local bus to Bikaner.  First lunch at the hotel, i.e. puri (deep fried bread) with Bhati (potatoes, tomatoes and onions) and then we walked to Janagarh Fort built in the 15^th century.  A 986 meter long wall with 37 bastions, a moat and two entrances fortified this fort.  It contains a wonderful ensemble of courtyards, balconies, towers and windows.  Miniature paintings and floral designs are painted on the walls and ceilings and it is quite majestic.  On our way back to the hotel we stopped at a miniature painting shop and the painter demonstrated his skill by painting a little picture on my fingernail with all five of our names underneath!!!  Dinner on the roof top of our hotel was a feast, i.e. tandoori chicken, vegetable pakora, cilantro chutney, butter chicken masala, vegetable korma, dal, raita, paneer, biryani and all kinds of Indian bread compliments of Intrepid.  The Mughal emperors probably ate this way every night!

In the morning we drove out to the Karni Mata Temple (rat temple), an ornate, isolated Hindu temple constructed in the early 1900s as a tribute to the rat goddess.  There are thousands of rats running around and food and milk are set out for them as well.  After our samosa lunch Mahe had us each pick out an India sweet which we all shared.  Many sweets are made with chickpea flour but all of them seem very sweet.  Some of us took a taxi out to the camel breeding center where some camels are breed for riding and some for pulling carts.  The camels in India have only one hump.   Dinner near the fort at Gallops that night.  We ordered paneer with cashew sauce and an interesting potato tandoori dish – to try something different.

Caught the 7 a.m. train to Jaisalem, placed our luggage in one of the hotel rooms, had a quick lunch and then took jeeps out into the desert.  We all climbed onto camels and rode about 2 hours into the heart of the desert where we watched the sun set from the top of the sand dunes.  A fire was lit and some nomads came by to entertain us with their instruments and dance – so special.  Dinner was served, i.e. dal, cauliflower, yogurt raita, chapati, rice and hot tea which we ate outside on our cots.  Afterwards, we all nestled down beneath our blankets to sleep under the stars….Breakfast of puri and jam and then a camel ride back to the road and to our hotel, ually a 250 year old sandstone haveli!!!  After hot showers we took a nice walking tour of the city and into the fort filled with shops and restaurants.  Dinner later on a roof top overlooking the fort – delicious vegetables, potatoes w/mint and naan bread.

In the morning we all walked to Gadisar lake, south of the city walls.  It is a man made reservoir built in 1367 and surrounded by temples and small shrines.  After breakfast we visited the seven Jain temples inside the fort.  These yellow sandstone temples date back to the 12^th and 15^th centuries and are dedicated to various hermits.  On the walls are animal and human figures carved in the famous Dilwara style.  Dinner overlooking the Jain temples – potatoes with cashew nuts was yummy!

Took a bus to Jodhpur in the morning, checked into our hotel, had lunch and then took tuk tuks into the center.  There is a bustling open market around the clock tower where people sell spices, paper umbrellas, jewelry, etc.  Lunch was so good at the hotel we decided to have dinner there as well, i.e. chicken, mutton, selection of breads, potato/cauliflower, vegetables, spinach paneer and sweets that one of the gals brought for us all to share.

In the morning we visited the Mehrangarh Fort, one of the largest forts in India, which you can visit with a very good audio guide.  Inside are several palaces known for their intricate carvings and expansive courtyards.  There is also a fabulous museum with howdahs (carriages perched on the top of elephants), miniature paintings and palanquins (a type of human-powered transport).  Stopped by the dazzling white Jawant Thado memorial built out of intricately carved sheets of marble.  We all had dosas (crisp crepes) filled with potatoes for lunch before wandering into the area where all the houses are painted blue!!!  Dinner was outside on the patio of “On the Rocks Restaurant” where we had one of our best meals, i.e. creamy chicken, potatoes stuffed with cheese and corn and roti.  Tried to get close to the king’s palace but it was guarded so ionly got a night shot from afar – still quite lovely.

On to Nimaj where we stayed  at Rawalabagh (www.rawlabagh.com).  We took a little “evening safari” in a jeep, stopping in some villages where they make pottery and cloth door hangings and finally near a lake for a little tea and biscuit stop.  Dinner by candlelight on the rooftop prepared by the owner was outstanding, i.e. chicken, eggplant, lentils, potatoes, rice, coriander and roasted garlic chutneys, chapati bread – real village fare so fresh and tasty.

A wonderful breakfast of omelettes, toast, honey, chickpea patties and coffee before our 4 hour drive to Ranakpur.  Our guide is a real foodie so lunch is always wonderful as it was today, i.e. lentil soup, tamarind chutney, chickpeas, etc.  We visited the incredible Chaumubkke Mandir, one of the most beautiful Jain temples in India.  Built in the 15^th century its detailed and intricate carving on the marble looks like lace work rather than stone carving.  Stayed in little chalets by the creek and once it cooled off we took a nice walk into the hills through some of the villages before dinner.

Off to Udaipur, arriving in time for a nice walking tour of the city, a simple fried paneer pakota for lunch and then some free time to wander the alleys filled with shops.  There was a lively festival going on in the afternoon with beautiful costumes, doll-size goddesses transported on people’s heads, turbaned men riding “horses” and lots of music.  In the evening we went to a nearby haveli where there were more festivities and fireworks going on.  Stayed for a bit and afterwards shared some of our favorite dishes for dinner. 

In the morning we visited the City Palace which is a palace complex built entirely in granite and marble.  The interior with its balconies, towers and cupolas showcases exquisite mirror work, wall paintings, inlay-work, etc.  I went up to a rooftop restaurant nearby overlooking the lake and had some tandoori roti and aloo masala for lunch and then visited the Bhartiya Lok Kala Mandel folk museum.   It has exhibits of all types of folk articles from Rajasthan, i.e. rural dresses, musical instruments, dolls, etc.  I watched a little puppet show where the puppeteers used some of the old folk puppets stored in the museum.  In the early evening, we took a nice boat ride around the lake before watching a traditional dance show in an old haveli which was excellent.  Tuk Tuks to Natraj (www.hotelnatrajudaipur.com) where we had a thali dinner.  We sat at a large table and trays topped with several little cups filled with vegetable curry, chick peas, potatoes, lentils, yogurt, etc. were set before each of us.  “Waiters” came by and placed rice, chutneys and several types of breads in the empty sections of our trays and everything was sooo delicious.  Well worth the $3 we each paid for dinner!!!

In the morning I couldn’t resist visiting the marionette shop.  I love puppets and the owner demonstrated how some of them moved and danced.  I bought a camel one with a man and woman riding on top – really unusual.  I did a bit more shopping, picking up a few unique pieces and then walked across the bridge to have lunch at the lakeside restaurant called Ambrai (www.amethaveliudaipur.com).  It gets very hot from about 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. so it was a perfect time to relax.  I had a delicious vegetable curry and tandoori roti while I leisurely read the “Sea of Poppies” until it cooled off.  Later we all met for cooking class.  The chef was a bit arrogant so the experience wasn’t topnotch but it was fun, nonetheless.  We made vegetable paneer, potato balls filled with cashews and chapati before taking the overnight train to Jaipur which left at 10:30 p.m.

Breakfast at the hotel before heading out to the Amber Fort, an opulent palace complex built with red sandstone and marble.  The buildings house glass inlaid panels, multi-mirrored ceilings, a raised platform with 27 colonnades and the famous “magic flower” fresco with its seven unique designs.  Lunch at LMB restaurant of crispy samosas and potato patties stuffed with nuts.  One of the gals bought a box of Indian sweets which we all devoured.  We took a walking tour of the many bazaars before returning to the hotel.  Spicy vegetables and naan at the Copper Chimney for dinner.

In the morning we took taxis to Galtaji, an ancient Hindu pilgrimage site famous for its natural water springs.  One of the temples, Galwar Bagh, is know as the monkey temple and is dedicated to Hanuman.  Monkeys run around everywhere but are harmless. Afterwards I visited the Anokhi Museum of hand printing (www.anokhi.com/museum) as I am very interested in the art of block printing.  I also visited the Central Museum to see the traditional musical instruments, block printed dresses, miniature paintings, etc. before meeting everyone at the Raj Movie Theatre.  We watched an Indian action movie with no sub titles so it was hard to follow the plot but fun to be there.  Late dinner wasn’t such a good idea as I didn’t really feel all that well afterwards and took it pretty easy the next day…

Bus to Bharatpur.  We are staying at Udai Vilas Palace (www.udaipalace.com) and our room overlooks the gorgeous swimming pool below.  Once it cooled off we took rickshaws into the Keoladeo Ghana National Park, a man-made wetland and a famous avifauna sanctuary hosting thousands of birds.  We saw a wonderful selection i.e. herons, ergrets, cormoranats, etc.   In the morning I felt much better and enjoyed a delicious breakfast in the hotel before setting out.  We drove to Fatehpur Sakri, the short lived capital of the mughal empire constructed between 1571 - 1585 during the reign of Emperor Akbar.  It is one of the best preserved collections of Mughal architecture in India and this walled city is filled with royal palaces, harem, courts, a mosque, etc.  Akbar had three wives and they each had their own palace – a wonderous place.  Thali lunch at a tiny café nearby of lentils, kofta, spinach/potato curry, cilantro chutney, chapati and even rice pudding.

At 4 p.m. tuks tuks to the Taj Mahal, a white marble mausoleum built by Shah Jahan as a memorial to his second wife Mumtaz who died in childbirth in 1631.  Throughout the complex, passages from the Qur’an are used as decorative elements.  We had plenty of time to wander inside and out, marveling at the magnificence, until the sun set… Visited a carpet shop nearby where the carpets are made by hand by the nomads.  Dinner at Maya Restaurant nearby where we sat upstairs on the terrace.  When we returned to our hotel, I noticed an Indian wedding taking place next door.   I talked my way in and enjoyed watching the people, tasting some of the food, i.e. skewers of meat, platters of bread, piles of rice, etc. and even talking with some of the guests.  I didn’t stay long as it didn’t seem appropriate but it was fun!!!

In the morning we visited the Agra Fort, more accurately described as a walled city.  Soon after the completion of the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan was deposed and restrained by his son, Aurangzeb, in the fort and cared for by his daughter Princess Jahanara during the last seven years of his life.  A spectacular creation.  We meandered through the Kinari Bazaar for a bit but it was pretty rough so we went our separate ways.  I went to the Oberoi as it was very hot and had a relaxing lunch of lentils, roti, vegetables with corn and vegetable with cauliflower and herbs and it was all very tasty.  Visited the Itimad-ud-daulah’s tomb or baby Taj which is often regarded as a draft of the Taj Mahal.  Its walls are white marble encrusted with semi-precious stones.  My last stop was to Mehtab Bagh, a park from where you can see the Taj from the Yamuna river side.  9 p.m. train back to Delhi, arriving around 10:30 p.m.  En route we were served a meal just like on the airplane.  A tray with covered dishes of dal, rice, paneer and chapati was brought to each of us and a bit later little boxes of ice cream!!! 

We all shared an Indian breakfast in the morning at the same restaurant where we had begun our trip – delicious dosa filled with aloo masala before saying good-bye.

I checked into the Red Mable B&B(www.redmaplebedandbreakfast.com) and then walked through the Dilli Haat Market where the local craftsmen sell their wares.  Afterwards I took the metro to Hauz Khas village, a boutique area with lots of interesting shops and restaurants.  I enjoyed a delicious spicy rava dosa, a crisp semolina pancake filled with potatoes at Naivedyam before wandering through the little antique, jewelry and art shops.  I also walked around the nearby lake and visited the ruins of the old mosque and tombs.  Dinner that night was at Bukhara, one of the best restaurants in India, located in the ITC Maurya Hotel.  Their cuisine is cooked in a tandoor oven and was outstanding.  I spoke with the chef upon arrival and he prepared a wonderful selection of meats, breads, vegetables, long simmering lentils and desserts for me.  Afterwards he gave me a tour of the  kitchen where they prepared an enormous naan bread for me to see – it was such fun!!!

In the morning I fly to Kathmandu and on to still another adventure!!!!