Oman – January/February 2020 – Part I

A few years ago while in Dubai I booked a trip to the Musandam peninsula in Oman, filled with fjords and beauty but the guide never arrived so it has been on my mind every since.  This year I decided to visit Oman and see those fjords for myself.  Some friends of mine did the trip on their own but mentioned it would have been a lot better with a guide.  This information I took to heart and decided to do some of the trip on my own and some with G Adventures.

Left SNA on January 27 and arrived in Muscat on January 29.  Many long flights and layouts but as I used my United miles the trip was essentially free!!  I booked an airbnb in Mutrah near the souq and my host picked my up at the airport.  The airbnb was about a 15 minute walk to the corniche, the fish market, etc. which was a really good location.  I walked to the fish market to see the fresh fish and vegetables and then into the souq selling Omani and Indian artefacts and one of the oldest marketplaces in Oman dating back two hundred years.  Climbed up to the Mutrah fort built by the Portuguese in the 1580s and then into the Ghalya’s Museum which I thoroughly enjoyed.  This delightful museum is a reconstruction of what an Omani house would have looked like between 1950 and 1975.  There were beautiful wooden doors crafted from East Africa and some lovely jewelry and garments used for weddings.

Walked back to the souq along the corniche and found a little café upstairs where I had a nice Greek salad out on the patio.  Later that evening I walked to Bait al Luban, a traditional Omani restaurant, near the fish market and had a delicious shuwa lamb dinner on the patio.

In the morning I had some baklava and coffee with my host and then we visited the Al Bustan palace, a beautiful hotel set along the beach.  Stopped to see sohar, a replica of the boat which sailed to Guanzhou in China.  She dropped me at Bait al Zubair, a fabulous museum in old Muscat where I spent a couple hours learning about the life of the Omani with displays of traditional handicrafts, traditional clothes, face masks, swords and a replica of a traditional Omani house.  Walked to the Sultan’s palace and then took a taxi to the “cave” area where there are a lot of restaurants and had a nice Greek salad outside on the top at a Lebanese restaurant.  Taxi back to the souq and then walked to the Al Riyam Park where I started a walk back to the souq but it seemed too dangerous so I gave it up…

Later that evening I had a wonderful Indian dinner at Mamtaz Mahal.  My tandoori roasted cauliflower and tikka masala chicken with garlic naan were very tasty and I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere.

Worked something out with a friend of my host so didn’t have to rent a car.  He dropped me in the morning at Starbucks on Qurum Road near the beach and I had a “real” coffee and muffin.  There are no coffee shops in Mutrah and I had missed a cup of good coffee to start the day.  Wandered along the road to Qurum beach and found some cute little restaurants and shops.  Had a coffee and cake at Costa Coffee overlooking the sea and then walked to the Qurum Natural Park and enjoyed the beautiful waterfalls and paths filled with plants and flowers. 

Dinner at the Turkish House was really nice.  Decided to dine in the old part serving seafood and started with a meze platter filled with hummus, eggplant and Turkish bread followed by nicely grilled fish.

Another delicious coffee and muffin at Starbucks the next morning, before being dropped off at the Grand Mosque, a gift from Sultan Qaboos to mark his 30^th year of reign.  He died this year and was much loved.  The mosque can accommodate 20,000 worshippers and the prayer carpet is a major feature of the design of the interior.  Also of note is the extraordinary chandelier above the praying hall.  While visiting the mosque was the only time I needed to wear a head scarf.

Got a ride up to the Al Ameen white marble mosque on the hill.  I was fortunate it was still open so I could see the hand carved works of art in stone inside in the form of Islamic patterns and calligraphy.  Breathtaking inside and out.  Caught another ride to the Royal Opera House and took a guided tour.  Considered one the most beautiful and technically advanced opera houses in the world, it was fascinating to see how many ways it could be transformed.  Because Sultan Qaboos was so musical no music or musical performances are allowed for 40 days in Oman out of respect for this great man…

In the afternoon, I walked along the Qurum Beach to Costa Coffee where I enjoyed a delicious coffee and cheesecake overlooking the sea.  Taxi back to Mutrah.  Got a ride to Shabestan, a Persian restaurant later that evening and had an excellent meal, i.e. side platter of arugula, feta, olives and bread, chicken kebabs marinated in lebnah, saffron and lemon and three rice.

Walked along the corniche almost to old Muscat and back in he morning and then was dropped off at my new hotel where the G Adventures trip would begin.  I had thought about renting a car and doing this part by myself but decided I would probably miss many things without a guide and a 4 wheel drive car.  Walked to the beach nearby and stopped at the W Hotel to see their lovely bar/tapas area called Living Room which was very ecletic.  On to Costa Coffee for a coffee and chocolate cheesecake, always  enjoying the view of the sea.  Our group meeting was at 6 p.m.  There will be 12 of us, some from Australia, England, Scotland, etc.  Our guide was from Oman.  Got a nice briefing of what’s to come and then I walked down to LoKanta where my former host works and she sat me at a lovely table upstairs.  It is an upscale Turkish restaurant and I enjoyed my meal, i.e. meze platter with hummus, eggplant, yogurt and cucumbers and roasted pepper dip with warm bread, grilled lamb kebabs with vegetables and a spectacular dessert called kunafe made with kadif and warm cheese drizzled with a light syrup.

Nice breakfast buffet in the morning and then to the Grand Mosque again, this time with a guide which made the visit more memorable.  Dropped by the souq in Mutrah where I had already been and then to the Museum in Old Muscat where I had also been but enjoyed seeing some of the exhibits again.  Lunch at Le Cave at a Turkish restaurant where we all shared a large meze platter, lamb and chicken kebabs, grilled fish, salad with feta cheese and cucumbers and a light mango custard for dessert.  On our own for the afternoon.  Took a walk to the beach as it is close by and made some flight reservations for my upcoming trip to Salalah.

In the evening I walked up to the Crown Plaza hotel on the hill and had a delicious tuna tartar outside on the patio overlooking the sea.  Unfortunately my chocolate dessert was terrible and I had to send it back but on my way out I was offered some nice Arabian desserts which I ate on my way back to the hotel…

In the morning we drove along the coast towards the picturesque Bimmah Sinkhole, a limestone “lake” of turquoise waters about 60 m deep, perfect for swimming.  Continued on to Sur, stopping along the way at a local restaurant where I had delicious grilled fish with naan bread and a simple salad.  Stopped at the Dhow Shipyards to see how craftsmen build dhows, the teak boats the traditional way, without plans.  Unfortunately now people prefer to build fiberglass boats because they are much cheaper to make and easier to maintain.  Drove along the corniche to our hotel.  Had a nice Omani date cake and ice cream with tea before leaving for Ras El Jinz about 8:30 p.m.to visit the turtle sanctuary.  As it was not the season to see the turtles it was a futile trip as there were none to see…

After breakfast on the patio, we drove in 4 wheel drive cars towards Wadi Bani Khalid, a rocky oasis nestled in the East Hajar mountains filled with natural pools.  There was a rather difficult walk to a low cave which was interesting to see if you had a flashlight.  I crawled in just far enough to see inside and it was worth the walk.  Stopped for a snack and then into the dunes where we climbed around and watched the sunset before settling into our desert lodge at Wahabi Sands.

Met in the lodge for a buffet dinner, i.e. chicken kebabs, rice, cucumber salad, breads, hummus and several cakes and Arabian desserts.

Pancakes and honey for breakfast with delicious dates served at every meal.  Leaving the desert behind, we headed towards Ibra and stopped to visit the Jabrin castle which dates back to about 600 years ago and has undergone an extensive renovation.  It is filled with history of how life was in Oman and there are many rooms inside all of which served a specific purpose, i.e. a special room where dates were crushed into liquid.   We spent about an hour enjoying all the lovely rooms.  Stopped at a little café for a falafel sandwich and then at the historic fortress of Bahla but didn’t go in unfortunately…  Saw some racing camels with remote controls which was very interesting.  Children used to ride them but now it is done by remote control!!!  Arrived in Nizwa about 5 p.m. and wandered through the old and new souqs, sampling dates and halvah.  We had time on our own so I visited the Nizwa Fort and Castle which was fabulous.  The castle part was filled with interesting exhibits about making indigo, how the palm trees are used, etc. housed in the beautiful rooms of the past.

Picked out a fresh fish for dinner at a little restaurant nearby and had it grilled along with a Greek salad.  Checked into our hotel, a bit far from town.

Early breakfast and then into Nizwa for the goat market which was great fun.  People were crowded around as goat sellers paraded their goats calling out the price until someone was interested.  Also stopped by the vegetable and fish markets and the weapons market where antique guns and knives were sold.  Stopped by LuLu Hypermarket to pick up a salad for lunch and then on to Al Hamra to visit the traditional mud houses of Misfat Al Abriyeen.  The village boasts amazing agricultural terraces, beautiful alleys and old houses built on top of solid rocks and learn about the Falaj network, Oman’s ancient water supply system.  Returned to Nizwa via Jebel Shams where we had a picnic overlooking Wadi Nakhr known as the Grand Canyon of Oman and then walked down into the “snake point” of the gorge which was a really nice walk. 

In the evening we all met in the lobby and drove to a nearby Turkish restaurant where we had a delicious dinner outside. I had chicken kebabs with yogurt sauce and Arabian bread and part of a spinach and cheese filled Turkish pizza which was really nice.

After breakfast in the morning, we drove through Wadi Bani Awf which offers some of the best off-road driving with beautiful scenery and stunning cliffs and canyons throughout.  Took a nice walk along the creek and continued to Snake Canyon where we picked up ice cream to hold us over until our late lunch.  Stopped at a really nice Turkish restaurant where we shared a kebab platter, meze of spreads, selection of breads and salads.  It was really delicious.  Arrived back in Muscat and had a few hours to take a walk along the beach. 

Later I walked down to Lokante where my friend works and had kanafe, the delicious dessert I had last time I was there and a cup of hot tea.  In the morning I fly to Khasab and finish the remainder of my time in Oman on my own which I am truly looking forward to!!!

India – Calcutta to Delhi – February, 2016

My second G Adventure trip started in Calcutta so I took a taxi from Delhi to the airport only to find that the flight had been delayed two hours!!!  Air India gave us a coupon for a complimentary lunch at a very nice restaurant so while waiting for my flight I enjoyed dal, paneer, chicken curry and Indian bread.  Took a prepaid taxi to “Central” where I was staying but the driver, and later myself(!!!), had a very hard time finding it.  Luckily J who runs the “hotel” was always available by phone so I eventually arrived.

Nice large room on the 7^th floor, quiet with AC and hot water.  Even though it was almost 10 p.m. I was a bit hungry and wanted to stretch my legs so J suggested I walk around the corner to the Forum as it was safe to walk alone at night.  Found the Forum and had a nice Bengali meal, i.e. coconut chickpea dal, luchi (puffed bread) and little potatoes with spicy sauce at Oh! Calcutta.

In the morning I took a walk and had breakfast at Piccadilly Circus bakery nearby, i.e. delicious coffee and a brownie.  Took a taxi to the Marble Palace but it was closed for a private tour until later so I walked to the Howrah suspension bridge which is 705 m long and was built during WWII.  Also visited the colorful Mlik Ghat flower market nearby.  Walked back to the Marble Palace but it was still closed so I gave up on seeing it and instead visited the Kaliglat Temple, an ancient Kali temple, rebuilt in 1809 and Calcutta’s holiest spot for Hindus and possibly the source of its name.  It is a lovely temple with floral and peacock motif tiles that look more Victorian than Indian.  During festivals goats are sacrificed there…After much searching I found Bhojohari Manna mentioned in Lonely Planet as the top Bengal restaurant in Calcutta.  I certainly couldn’t miss that!  There was a long line but I finally got seated in this very cute restaurant with delicious food.  Had chickpea dal, this time it had fresh coconut slivers in it, Luchi and a stuffed potato dish served with a spicy mint sauce – realllyy tasty.  Walked around a bit but the city is so confusing I couldn’t find my way so just took the metro back to Central, calling J along the way to get directions!!!

Next day was Valentine’s Day so was lucky to get a reservation at Peshawri in the ITC Sonor.  I had a reservation for the night before but arrived too late so thanks to J was able to reserve for the following night.  Enjoyed a prix fixe dinner similar to Bukhara in Delhi, i.e. stuffed potatoes, tandoori chicken thighs (very tender and delicious), rolled lamb, garlic naan, chicken with tikka masala and peppers, dal and Indian ice cream.  The food was really so much better than in Delhi.

Walked around the gardens of the Victoria Monument in the morning which were lovely and very well kept.   They cover an area of 64 acres and everything seemed to be in bloom.  Visited St. John’s church built in 1787.  Quite British looking inside and out ringed by columns and housing rattan chairs inside.  Walked along the Ganges to Millenium Park which was rather uneventful.  Lunch at Zaranji near the Indian Museum was delicious, i.e. kofta navar (dumplings with a really nice sauce), dal and tandoori roti plus some candied mango chutney which went well with everything.  Wanted to visit the Ashutosh Museum of Indian Art but couldn’t find it so just gave up.  Took a taxi to Hotel Lytton where our G Adventure would start with a meeting at 6 p.m. 

Am delighted to have Dushyant again as my guide and it was fun to see him again!  Walked to the new market and had a kati roll, Bengal’s trademark fast food.  It’s a paratha roti filled with sliced onions, chili and a stuffing, i.e. mine was cheese and potato.

In the morning had delicious coffee and chocolate brownie at Flury’s, a very cute little coffee shop nearby.  Walked over to the Oberoi where many years ago my ex husband and I had dined!!!

We visited Mother Teresa’s Motherhouse where she lived most of her life and saw the little room where she slept from 1953 – 1997.  She won the Nobel prize for peace in the 1970’s and dedicated her life to helping the poor, especially the lepers.

Visited the Victoria memorial and went inside to see the paintings, etc.  It was designed to commemorate Queen Victoria’s 1901 diamond jubilee but the construction wasn’t completed until 1921, i.e. almost 20 years after her death.  In front there is a bronze statue of her on her throne.  Took a ferry ride down the Ganges to the Hawrah Bridge and then had lunch on Sudder Street at a little Bengal café, i.e. luchi, vegetable and potato dishes – all very nice.  Had some time to wander around a bit in the new market before catching the overnight train to Kalimpong.

Arrived at 6:30 a.m. at the train station and still needed to take

a 3 hour bus ride to get to Kalimpong.  Stopped for parantha stuffed with potatoes and coffee for breakfast.  Checked into our hotel and then visited the Cactus gardens and a nearby church.  Had vegetarian noodles for lunch at Gompu’s restaurant and then drove to the Durpin Gompa monastery consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 1976.  It is perched atop a hill and very beautiful inside.  Listened to the monks “praying”, i.e. reciting words, blowing horns and clinging cymbals.  Dinner at a little restaurant across from the hotel was vegetable curry, naan and roti bread.  Food was really good.

In the morning we headed to Sikkim, a state in East India in the Himalyan foot hills bordering Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan.  It requires a permit to enter but is easy to obtain.  While our guide got our permits we had potato stuffed paranthas and coffee for breakfast.  Drove to Gangtok, the capital, and visited Rumtek Gompa considered one of Tibetan Buddhism’s most venerable institutions and currently the home-in-exile of Buddhism’s Kagyu (black hat) sect.  Meant to replace the Tsurphu monastery in Tibet, the main monastery building was constructed between 1961 and 1966.  The giant throne within awaits the crowning of the (disputed) 17^th karmapa, who currently resides in Dharamasala.  Shared a Nepalese thali with one of the traverlers, i.e. dal, rice, vegetables, cracker bread, curd and beans and then checked into our hotel.  Very cold up in the mountains.

As we are a bit far from town had dinner at our hotel (Maplewood), i.e. spicy vegetables, cumin potato dish and naan bread.   Indian breakfast at the hotel was delicious, i.e. fried eggs, dry rice dish, potato parantha and hot tea.  Very foggy day so couldn’t see much from the Ganesh Tok viewpoint.  Visited Hanuman Tok and the Enchey Gompa containing beautiful murals of tantric deities.  The monastery founder was apparently famous for his levitational skills and was a flying monk some have said!!!  Stopped at the Himalyan Zoological Park to see some unique animals, i.e. red pandas, snow leopards and clouded leopards in a forest like atmosphere.  Lots of hiking up and down hills to get to the animals which was lovely. 

Stopped for some Tibetan momas, i.e. stuffed dumplings and then on to the lingdum gompa, the most picturesque of Gangtok’s monasteries, flower gardens and the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology housed in a traditional Tibetan-style mansion with a wonderful collection of artifacts related to Vajrayana Buddhism and Tibetan culture, i.e. Tantric ritual objects, thopa (bowl made from a human skull), thangkas (Tibetan cloth paintings), etc.

Took a gondola over the city and into the center of town.  Had some free time to wander around before meeting for dinner at A Taste of Tibet for some Tibetan vegetarian noodles and masala papadam.

In the morning we drove to Darjeeling, stopping for vegetable noodles on the way.  Visited the Tibetan Refugee center which houses 600 aged, orphans, etc. and is also a clinic, gompa and craft workshop.  Had mutton, spinach paneer and naan at Glenary’s for dinner.

Sunrise at Tiger Hill and then breakfast at a little café.  Visited the Happy Valley Tea Estate which began in 1854.  The estate was not functioning this time of year but we had a tour nevertheless and tried some of their tea which is organic and quite nice.

Visited the Mahakal Temple situated on top of a hill, walking through beautiful prayer flags on the way up.  Afterwards we visited the Japanese Peace Pagoda, a gleaming white building and one of the more than 70 pagodas built around the world by the Japanese Buddhist organization.  In the pagoda were murals carved out of rock depicting scenes in Buddha’s life. 

Had some free time so stopped at the Himalayan coffee shop for chocolate cashew cake and delicious coffee before wandering around town.  Met at 3 p.m. to go to the train station where we took the toy train which made its first journey along its two foot wide tracks in September 1881.  Stopped first in Ghum where we visited the railway museum and then in Kurseong and back to Darjeeling.  Unlike the Shimla train, this one ran within feet of local storefronts. 

Had dinner at Shangri-law restaurant, i.e. stuffed potatoes w/sauce, fish curry, dal and butter naan. 

Nice uphill walk to the Hindu temple we visited yesterday and took a leisurely walk around and back down to have coffee and walnut brownie for breakfast at the Himalayan Café.  Wandered around the city until 4 p.m. when we took taxis to the train station.  Unfortunately!!! There was a strike and people were sitting on the tracks so we had to wait in the train station for 13 hours (!!!) until the train finally arrived at 5:00 a.m..  A few of us played cards for several hours which helped the time go by.  I had picked up some cookies at Himalyan Café so had those for dinner.  Finally arrived at Mugal Sarai at 6:30 p.m. and then had to take a bus to Varanasi.  Most of us slept for several hours on the train and they did serve some nice vegetable curry, rice and dal for lunch.  Beautiful scenery along the way – a part of India I hadn’t seen before.  Had a nice dinner at our hotel in Varanasi, i.e. spinach dumplings, some cashew curry, cornmeal misti roti and regular naan.

Up early and headed down the Ganges on a boat to watch the sunrise.  Many people were already bathing and taking their holy dips.  Also saw some bodies on the stairs wrapped up and waiting to be cremated.  Lit some candles and sent them out with good wishes on lily pads into the Ganges….

I stayed in town while everyone else returned to the hotel and spent a couple hours immersing myself in Varanasi, i.e. watching people get their heads shaved, bathing in the Ganges, etc.  Tuk Tuk back to the hotel for vegetable jalfrezi and garlic naan and then went to a carpet “mansion” with our guide and a traveler looking to buy.  Interesting to see the beauty of the carpets but they were even too expensive for him.

Later in the evening we took a boat across the Ganges and Dushyant and one of our lady travelers took a “holy dip”.  Ferry back to the other side and a fun walk through the narrow streets and alleys ending at the blue lassi where we all had fruit lassis with fresh shredded fruit on top sitting on the terrace.  Mine was papaya and pineapple and delicious!  Took our boat out in front of the Dashshwamedh ghat decorated with  Hindu statues and watched the evening ceremony of lights, singing, etc.  Saw 13 piles of bodies burning as we floated down the river…

Stopped at a Nepalese home for a “cooking class” which was not really a cooking class.  The daughter made some momos (stuffed dumplings) and we all stuffed a couple to learn the technique.  The dad made some vegetable soup with noodles and we had those for dinner.  A really nice day…

Early morning train to Lucknow.  Checked into the hotel, had a quick lunch of dal and naan and took tuk tuks to the Residency, a large collection of gardens and ruins built in 1800 and served as the residence for the British resident guard who was a representative in the court of the Nawan.  In 1857 it witnessed the siege of lucknow, a prolonged battle lasting 147 days.  Dinner at a Moghul restaurant where we shared some mutton kebabs, dumplings, soft thin roti and some vegetable biryani which was quite nice.

In the morning after breakfast went to Bara Imambara, constructed in 1785, a year of a devastating famine, to provide employment for people in the region for almost a decade.   The entrance is accessed through two enormous gateways leading into a beautiful courtyard.  On one side is the beautiful Badshahi mosque and on the other is a large bowli (stepwell with running water).  The main imambara consists of a large vaulted center chamber containing the tomb of Asaf-ud-daula.  Walked up to the top of the central hall and into the three dimensional labyrinth, a network of narrow passageways that wind up to the upper floors.  Very impressive.

Had lunch at a little café with marginal Indian food which was rather disappointing as that was my last meal in India…Shared stuffed potatoes, butter chicken, misti roti and naan.  Caught the late afternoon train to Delhi and had a samosa for dinner.  Arrived about 10:30 p.m. and took a quick shower at the hotel before taking a taxi to the airport.  My flight left on time at 3:30 a.m.  What a great trip – can’t believe it’s already over…

India – February, 2016 – Delhi to Delhi

Off to India, one of my favorite countries in the world!!!  Left out of orange county which was very convenient and arrived at 2:00 a.m. the next morning in Delhi!!!  Am staying again at the delightful Shanti Home and had a car pick me up as it was sooo late.  Took a hot shower and slept until 9:00 a.m.  Delicious breakfast on the terrace (one of the reasons I love Shanti Home) was all made to order:  hard cooked eggs, crepes filled with sugar and an Indian dish.  Shanti Home is a bit far from the center but there is a metro a 10 minute walk away.  A hotel worker walked me to the metro, got me organized and off I went to the Craft Museum.

I had been to the Craft Museum a few years ago but didn’t really have enough time to see it well.  So, I spent a nice 2 hours enjoying the wall hangings, embroidery, saris, etc.  Had a delicious lunch, i.e. corn pancakes, pureed mustard greens, jaggerty at the museum’s little café and then, refreshed, headed to the Kahn Market.  Found a cute little blouse at the Anokhi shop and wandered around a bit.  Stopped for a quick walk around Connaught square before heading back to the hotel for a rest.

Have been invited to an Indian wedding the following night and this afternoon the bride’s party was having their hands painted in henna.  I chatted a bit with everyone and then they painted one of my hands as well – so beautiful.  Took a taxi to Indian Accents Restaurant and had a fabulous meal, i.e. blue cheese mini naan, burrata with tomato chutney, walnuts and crispy crackers, shredded spicy duck “cone”, shrimp wrapped in bacon w/wasabi cream, sweet and spicy pork ribs, soft shell crab pieces deep fried in coconut flour with tomato pickle sauce, sorbet on a stick, pepper fish on greens with spicy sauce, dal, yogurt/avocado sauce, bacon stuffed naan and carrot crumble and chocolate fudge layered brownie for dessert followed by tiny cardamom cookies and mango candies. 

I returned to the hotel by taxi and the festivities for the next day’s wedding were still going on.  Had a look at the buffet, listened to the band and watched the dancing before turning in…

After another delicious breakfast on the terrace, I took the metro to the Qutb Minar Complex where the first monuments here were erected by the sultans of Mehrauli and subsequent rulers expanded on their work. Hiring the finest craftsmen and artisans to create an explanation mark in stone to record the triumph of muslim rule.  Dominated by the spectacular soaring afghan-style victory tower and minaret, Qutb is studded with ruins and tombs which I enjoyed wandering through.  Tuk tuk to hauz khas village for lunch at Naivedyam, i.e. masala dosa, crisp lentil pancake filled with masala potatoes and vegetables served with spicy green and red sauces, yogurt sauce and dal – sooooo tasty.  Wandered through the shops and back into the complex of old mosques along the water until I got tired. 

Met another couple from the hotel also going to the wedding at 8:00 p.m. and we finally arrived at an enormous hall about 10:00 p.m. as the driver couldn’t find his way.  No problem as the groom had not even arrived yet.  1,000 people dressed in beautiful saris filled the hall which was decorated everywhere with flowers.  Live music and later videos of the couple were playing on an enormous band stand.  Appetizers were passed and also about 20 “stations” were set up serving incredibly delicious vegetarian appetizers, the likes of which I had never seen, let alone tasted. 

Stopped by the fruit table to clear our palates and finally the groom appeared wearing a beautiful turban and, after much money changing to allow him entrance into the hall, he was seated on the stage awaiting his bride.

We went to the other side of the hall where there were about 50 stations serving Indian food from many regions as well as European dishes.  We chose a selection and sat down to enjoy the feast.  The bridge appeared so we watched as she arrived in a chariot filled with flowers.  Afterwards we picked a selection of desserts from the dessert table, some tea from the drinks station and enjoyed everything.  About 1:00 a.m. things were winding down and we were tired so we called our taxi and returned to the hotel.  The whole experience was absolutely amazing!!!

Late breakfast and then took the metro to Akshardham temple, an ostentatious salmon-colored sandstone structure with 20,000 deities

carved into it.  Walked along the water and around the temple, all carved with beautiful hindu images.  Lunch at Bukhara, a tandoori restaurant, i.e. tandoori cauliflower, stuffed potatoes, garlic naan, dal and rice pudding before returning to Shanti Home.  Taxi to Metro Heights where I was to start my trip with G Adventures. 

Group meeting at 6 p.m.  Our local guide Dushysat turned out to be an outstanding guide and I was fortunate to have him on both my trips.  Went to a cafeteria type restaurant for dinner which was a bit disappointing but there are many meals to come!!

Visited the G Adventures-supported New Delhi Streetkids Project which has helped many orphans who used to live on the streets but are now taken care of.  Lunch at Aroma, i.e. tandoori salad and naan bread which was yummy before boarding the train to Amritsar.  Arrived very late so showered and went to bed.  Took a walk after breakfast and then visited Jallianwala Bagh, where the British Indian Army opened fire on a crowd of nonviolent protestors on 13 April 1919, killing well over 1,000 people…

Visited the famous  Amritsar golden temple, floating at the end of a long causeway.  It is a blend of hindu and Islamic architectural styles with an elegant marble level and a shimmering second level, encased in engraved gold panels, topped by a dome gilded with 750 kg of gold.  Visited the enormous kitchens where food for 60,000 people is prepared every day, i.e. dal, vegetables, naan, rice and rice pudding.  We all “helped” roll out some bread and had lunch (which was delicious!) on tin plates. 

Later that evening we drove to the wagah border (Indian/Pakistan border) to watch the parade by the soldiers from both sides and the lowering of the two nations’ flags.  There were soo many people it was really hard to see anything.  Stopped at the Crystal Restaurant for dinner, i.e. kofta with cashew sauce and naan bread on the way back to the hotel.  A few of us wandered around the temple at night which was quite lovely.

In the morning walked to the temple to see the sun rise.  Walked around the complex but there was an enormous line of people so didn’t go inside.  Packed up and had breakfast at a nearby coffee shop.  I ordered a delicious piece of chocolate cake with rich icing.  Don’t remember desserts being this good in India the last time I was here. 

Bus to Dharamasala, stopping for a potato/cauliflower dish and chickpea naan along the way.  Very cold here so requested a few extra blankets.  Walked to a Tibetan restaurant nearby for momas, vegetable stuffed dumplings, which took a LONG time to prepare but were delicious.  Wore all my clothes to bed!!!

Took a nice leisurely walk into town before breakfast and then a stroll around McLeod Banj, the famous seat of the Tibetan government in exile and current home of the Dalai Lama, to the waterfall and on to the Shiva temple for a nice view of the Himalayans.  Drove to the Norbulingka Institute of Tibetan culture but since it was a Tibetan holiday it was closed.  Also closed was the Kangra Art Museum in the Kotwali bazaar as well as the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts where generally a folk opera is performed…

Visited the Brajeshwari devi temple, a sacred shrine known for its great wealth.  On to the Church of St. John in the Wilderness with its lovely stained glass windows and finally to the Tsuglagkhang complex comprising the official residence of the Dalai Lama.  Sacred to Avalokitesvara, the Tibetan deity of compassion, it enshrines a 3 meter high gilded statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha.  Also visited the Kalachakra temple, a beautiful and colorful Buddhist temple near the market square.  Had some free time to wander around the bazaar and planned to meet at the Tibetan Kitchen; however, it was closed because of the holiday.  Ended up at another nearby restaurant and shared some fried vegetable momas, naan bread and some Tibetan noodles with vegetables with another couple.  Although it was dark, the walk back to the hotel was lovely.

A nice breakfast of scrambled eggs on toast and then our bus headed to Shimla, stopping at the Norbulingka institute which was open!!   Built in the traditional Tibetan architectural style with temples, etc., it housed an interesting “doll” museum with diaramas depicting Tibetan history and life.  We ran into a lot of traffic so the trip to Shimla took all day.  We did stop for a potato/cauliflower dish with naan bread which had to do for dinner as we arrived in Shimla at 11:00 p.m.  Took a hot shower and went to bed.

In the morning it was so cold I didn’t even bother changing clothes.  Took a walk up into town and found it delightful!  Looked for a place for breakfast but didn’t find anything until I was heading back to the hotel and spotted a really nice hotel off to my right.  Interestingly, many of our travelers were already there enjoying breakfast together so I joined them and had a delicious meal, i.e. hot “real” coffee, scrambled eggs on toast and fruit.  Met in the lobby of our hotel at 9:00 a.m. and walked up to the Jakhoo Temple, dedicated to the hindu monkey god Hanuman.  Lots of rhesusmacagues monkeys were loitering about and one even stole someone’s glasses off her face!!!  Luckily, with a little persuasion, they were returned.  There is also an impressive giant 108 foot high idol of hanuman which towers over the town. 

Stopped for Dosas at the Indian Coffee House and then a few of us took a taxi to Viceregal Lodge, built as an official residence in 1888 for the British Viceroys and eventually used as a summer residence.  Walked down to Christ Church built between 1844 and 1857 which contains some lovely stained glass windows and finally down to the Gaiety Theatre, modeled after the Garrick in London with its Burmese teak stage, etc.  Productions are still performed there.

Had dinner at the hotel where we had had breakfast and it was delicious.  I had kofta with spinach and onion stuffed roti.  Also shared some potato stuffed with cheese and vegetables which someone else had ordered – such great food.

Nice walk around town and delicious breakfast again at same hotel as yesterday.  Taxis to the train station and caught the Unesco World Heritage Shimla toy train to Kalka.  The line crosses more than 800 bridges and travels through over 100 tunnels.  Along the way are beautiful views of hills and villages.  Trip took about 6 hours but they really passed quickly.  Got a chance to talk with some of my fellow travelers who are always very interesting.

Later that afternoon we took a train to Delhi which was a nice luxurious train serving dinner, i.e. samosa, soup, curry, dal, rice and Indian bread and even ice cream!!!  Arrived in Delhi about 11 p.m.  In the morning after a nice walk and breakfast I flew to Calcutta to start the second part of my India experience.  Time sure does fly when you are having fun!!!