France
– October, 2018
Decided this was
the year to visit France
and October is the perfect time to go.
Flew to CDG from SNA which was very convenient and arrived the following
morning. Took the RER to Gare de Lyon
where my Airbnb was not far away. They
let me check in early and leave my luggage so I had plenty of time to stop for
coffee and a tarte normande and take the metro to the Louis Vuitton Foundation
designed by Frank Gehry. This glass building
takes the form of a sailboat’s sails inflated by the wind and lies at the edge
of the Bois de Boulogne.
When I arrived
there was a long line of people waiting but it moved fast and soon I was
enjoying the inside of the building as well as the very interesting exhibition
by Egon Schiele, an interesting expressionism artist from Austria inspired by
Klimt. Afterwards I walked up and around
the outside of the building enjoying its beauty.
Later that evening
I took the metro to Invictus, a cute little restaurant full of people where I
enjoyed gambas with cabbage and sesame, mille feuille filled with vanilla and a
glass of wine.
Walked to Blu
Sucre for coffee and pain aux raisins in the morning then stopped by the open
air market nearby before wandering down to the Place de Vosges to see the art
galleries. Last stop was a nice walk
along the Seine before returning to my room,
packing my bags and walking to the car rental place nearby. Turning on the GPS I brought along with me, I
headed to Chateauroux,
taking the paid highway as it was a bit farther than I had originally thought.
Arrived in the
center about 4 p.m. where I stopped for double espresso and an almond/chocolate
pastry. I called my airbnb to find out
the check in process and Michael met me at the gate where he showed me where to
park and into and around the little loft I had booked. Took a walk to the cathedral and into the
center where I returned later for dinner at Jeus2gouts which was
delicious!!! Started with a glass of
wine, salmon sushi style with grilled avocados, cod with caviar and potato
gratin, a 3 cheese course and a chocolate tart to finish.
Walked to the
inside market in the morning to pick up some little oranges and had a few with
my double espresso and almond/chocolate croissant outside in the square. Walked around the old town a bit and then
drove to Perigueux where I parked outside the old city and wandered through the
old cobbled streets to the Cathedral which was awesome. A bit later I drove to the airbnb but
couldn’t find any parking spot available for about 20 minutes which was very
frustrating but at last one appeared and I was able to check into my loft.
Walked back to the
Cathedral area where I was planning to dine but found another more interesting one
star Michelin restaurant L’Essentiel which looked even better so went there
instead and had a fabulous meal. Even
though I wasn’t dressed particularly well everyone was gracious and I had a
wonderful time. Started with a glass of
wine, broccoli mousse with lavender ice and parmesan sable, foie du canard with
roasted figs, ris du veau with potato puree and perigord sauce and finished
with a chocolate crunchy dessert. The
French sure do know how to dine!!!
Walked into the
old town for pain aux raisins and espresso in the morning, wandered around the
Cathedral area and then drove to Bergerac to do a self-guided tour around this
old medieval village. Found a little
café and had coffee and a lemon tart before heading to Issigeac, a very ancient
walled city almost uninhabited except for a few little shops. Arrived in Roque Gageac in the Dordogne about 3 p.m. and checked into the Belle Etoile,
a nice little hotel where I had stayed many years ago. Had dinner there later that night, i.e. rack
of lamb and a chocolate dessert, nice but not as fabulous as I remembered…
Drove to Sarlat in
the morning for chocolate croissant and espresso and a quick walk around the
town and then to the chateau des Milandes, a 15th century chateau
famous for its former owner Josephine Baker, glamorous dancer and music hall
singer (1906 – 1975) who took Paris by storm in the 1920s with her risqué
performances. First watched the raptor
show which was fun and then toured the chateau filled with lots of memorabilia
about her life, 12 adopted children from all over the world, clothes, etc.
Drove on through
the beautiful valley to the quaint old town of St. Cirq La Poupie where I had very fond
memories of visiting years ago…Stopped at a cute little café for traditional
walnut cake with walnut sauce and walnut ice cream and just explored the city
for about an hour.
Returned to Roque
Gageac to regroup before driving around the corner to O’Plaisir des Sens for a
fabulous dinner! Started with a herring
appetizer, sautéed foie gras with a baby pear, sturgeon with Swiss chard and wild
mushrooms and finished with a crisp chocolate “tartlet” and petits fours. Delightful!!!
Took a walk in the
morning and then enjoyed a complimentary breakfast at Belle Etoile which was
delicious, i.e. mini pain au chocolat, mini croissants, cheese, fruit and many
cups of espresso! Headed south to Carcassonne
which proved to be a lot farther away than I had anticipated…
Stopped outside
the city at a little café for mille feuille and espresso and then drove to my
airbnb near the bridge to the medieval city.
Was able to park nearby and check in to my little studio very
quickly. Wandered around the old town
first and then crossed the bridge to the old city and walked up to the castle
on the hill where there are lots of restaurants, shops, etc. Pretty touristy…
Had an outstanding
meal later at two star Franck Putelat on Chemin des Anglais, i.e. little
appetizers, beef tartar with oysters, bouillabaisse with foie gras de canard,
fish with cauliflower puree, beef filet with a Swiss chard tourte, cheese
selection, poached pear with pear sorbet, chocolate tart with chocolate mousse
and little petits fours. My best meal
during the whole trip!!
Walked across the
bridge in the morning and stopped at Kristin’s patisserie for pain aux raisins
before walking through the Narbonne
gate into the old city. Wandered around
the ramparts and around the castle and then headed to Aix en Provence.
Got a bit hungry along the way so stopped in Arles at a cute little bistro for
three cheese quiche and salad with sun-dried tomatoes. Found my airbnb but there was nowhere to park
so finally caved in and parked in the underground parking garage which was
pretty expensive. It was a relief,
however, to have time in the city…
Airbnb wasn’t
quite ready even though it was almost 6 p.m. so I wandered around the old city
streets which was fun anyway. It’s a busy
town with lots of fun little shops, restaurants, etc. to see. Returned later that evening to La Bouchee on
one of the side streets I had walked along earlier and had magret du canard
with scalloped potatoes and a rich chocolate fondant dessert – all
delicious. A very quaint little place
with a lot of atmosphere and nice friendly people.
Walked by a sweet
little bakery in the morning and sat outside to enjoy a pastry and
espresso. Had to check into my airbnb in
Nice before 12:30 p.m.; otherwise, my host would not return until 9 p.m. so
there was some pressure to get moving.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t enjoy the coastline this time but did arrive,
after some drama finding the correct entrance, before he left. Parked nearby close to the Chagall Museum
and spent about an hour inside. The most
important works were the twelve large size paintings he made illustrating the
first two books of the old testament.
Walked to the old
part of town and had a lemon tart and espresso outside a little café. This part of the town is charming and I
walked to the port and out along the sea.
Returned to my studio and changed into something nice before driving to
Eze, a charming hilltop town with its beautiful cobblestones streets filled
with art galleries and cafes. Had dinner
overlooking the cote d’azur
at chateau eza, i.e. autumn salad with mushrooms, truffles and egg yolk confit,
crumbled crab with seaweed chips, cod fish with oyster sauce, veal with
hazelnut crust and spinach, vanilla mousse with fresh figs, apple cake with
apple sorbet and mignardises. It was
lovely…
Walked down the
hill to a little café I had seen yesterday on my way into the old city and had
a pastry and espresso before driving to St.
Paul en Vence about 40 minutes away. I had been told that there was a fabulous
museum called Maeght Foundation which I found easily. It was filled inside and out with fabulous
Miros, Calders, Giacomettis, Legers, etc. some so large they were outside in
the sculpture garden! Amazing.
Walked down to the
town which is one of the oldest medieval towns on the French Riviera. Wandered a bit through the galleries and
shops and then stopped at a little café and sat on the terrace enjoying my leek
quiche and salad. Would like to return
when I had more time. Drove to Vienne where I stayed at a delightful airbnb with the
loft all to myself. Wandered around to
find the two important roman monuments still standing, i.e. the Temple of Augustus and the Gallo Roman pyramid
from a roman circus. Had dinner on a
little side street at La Muse, i.e. cubes of gravlak salmon/salad and beet
puree/pickled vegetables and radishes and a chocolate “success” for dessert. Years ago I had eaten at the Michelin starred
“La Pyramide” but it was closed the evening I was there…
Found a little
café in the morning and then wandered along the quai to the cathedral. Said good-bye to the lovely hosts of my
airbnb and then drove to Vezelay, whose town and 11th century
Romanesque Basilica of St. Magdalene are designated UNESCO World Heritage
Sites. Parked my car down the hill and
then walked up to the city, first stopping at a little café for a lemon tart
and espresso.
Visited the Musee
Zervos, a fabulous modern art museum with works by Picasso, Calder, Giacometti,
etc. as well as a special exhibition of Hans Hartung which was very interesting
as well. On up towards the cathedral to
visit the Jules Roy House, home of the Algerian born French writer.
Spent some quality
time in the Cathedral which is enormous.
As my airbnb still wasn’t ready I wandered around the gardens and the
cemetery behind the Cathedral. Once
checked in I quickly changed and drove out to the Chateau de Vault de Lugny for
dinner as Wednesday night all the restaurants in Vezelay are closed!!! Had a lovely fois gras brulee appetizer, rich
pumpkin soup, salmon with white beans and a chocolate mousse dessert. It is a lovely restaurant and I enjoyed my
dinner very much.
Took a little walk
up to the cathedral in the morning, stopped for pastry and espresso at a nearby
café and then drove back to Paris. It is always a bit intimidating to return a
rental car but all went well and before I knew it I was walking down Diderot street
heading to my airbnb nearby. This trip I
hadd booked only lofts and studios, having the whole place to myself which I
really enjoyed. Once settled in I found
a bakery nearby and had a quick almond tart and espresso before taking the
metro to my favorite museum, Musee de la musique where I spent the remainder of
the day. It has over 7,000 instruments
from all over the world, some of which you can hear play with the free audio
guide. A fabulous place!
Dinner later that
night at Chez Delphine which trip advisor recommended. It was easy to find and the atmosphere was
charming but I was somewhat disappointed in what I ordered, i.e. squid with
peppers and lava cake served warm with ice cream and custard sauce…
Stopped by the
bakery in the morning for a last chocolate croissant before taking the RER to Chatelet
and on to CDG where I caught a flight home.
Watched “won’t you be my neighbor” en flight and thoroughly enjoyed
learning about Mr. Roger’s life. I had a
wonderful time in France
and look forward to my next trip…
